Polymer80 Pro Series - Tab-Tastic

Updated: Jul 21, 2019


Full Video Transcript

- Welcome back, Freedom Protectors. Hey today, we're taking our Polymer80 and I'm gonna show you how to get tab-tastic. I'm gonna show you how to make it so like those tabs never even existed. And you see that channel? You're gonna have to watch that video too. But listen, if this is your first time here, joining us in Marine Gun Builder channel, and you love firearms, you love freedom, go ahead and hit subscribe, turn on notifications. Your Polymer80 will be so glad you did. You ready to go pro? Well, roll the intro.


- [MGB] Alright, Builders, welcome back! So, what I have laid out here is a whole bunch of different Polymer80s that I use for training purposes, okay? So when I'm teaching this, these are all my training pieces that I use of what not to do. And in the middle here is I have kind of the common methods of how people are doing tabs and I want you to take a look at these tools because these are the tools that we're not going to use. These are the tools that do not equal first time quality. Let's understand this layout. Traditionally, the first way it went was people were using files, okay? We've got these tabs, right? We've got these tabs here that are stickin' up. And so what they would do is they would get a file and they would start to file these down, right? Go back and forth for, I don't know, 30 minutes, trying to file this down. As they filed it down, obviously, the debris from the tabs is going everywhere, it's creating little shards of polymer getting in everywhere, getting in our little holes, getting in every nook and cranny, and just creating an all-around disaster. But that's not even the biggest problem. The biggest problem was you can't get absolutely flushed with the frame, with the file because the jig stands up a little bit higher by just a couple of millimeters and doesn't allow you to get straight, okay? So it was not only an inefficient method, it then helped us get to first time quality. So, no bueno. So then it became okay, we will use, we'll try to speed up the process a little bit. We'll speed up the process a little bit and we'll use a dremel, and we'll use some sanding wheels with the dremel, right? We've got some big ones, we've got some small ones and we would go ahead and start to dremel a lot of this tab down and then at the end, finish and switch to a file, and fine file. All that really did was speed up the process, that's all it really did, speed up the process a little bit of getting rid of the tab, alright? But again, not getting us a flush cut to first time quality. The other thing is that, as I had watched those videos back in the day, a dremel was a misunderstood tool when it comes to this build. These sanding wheels come in different grits. And you watch some of these videos, and I understand that the users don't realize it but they're using really coarse wheels and not fine wheels even when they're getting down low. That's an indicator that the person doesn't understand that these sanding wheels come with many different types of fine and course paper. But that's another story altogether. We're not gonna use any of that anyway, doesn't matter, alright? And then probably the most recent method that we see out there is the use of end snips. Somebody had the genius idea of hey listen, instead of sitting there and filing away forever, and using the dremel in conjunction with that, why don't we just use some end snips and snip off that tab, right? It was a fantastic idea! But again, all this did was speed up the process. It took 80% of that tab off, which was great, but then once I snipped it I still had 20% left that I had to go back in either again with a dremel or a file or both. And so while it was a genius idea and I loved it, it didn't get us to first time flush cut quality. So this is the problem with these tools. While they help us in some aspects with speed of doing this job, they do nothing for us as far as first time quality is concerned. Let's understand what first time quality means. First time quality means that when I look at this frame, I take back this line and I look at this frame. There should be, I should not be able to tell where these tabs even existed. I should not be able to not only see rough bumps here, but I also shouldn't even see that there was an outline, nor any indication that a tab existed there. It should blend perfectly with the rest of the frame. That's first time quality. So now let's get back to the beginning there of front loading accountability. In order to do that, the first thing that needs to happen is I need to have as flushed as a cut as possible here. And in this case, an 80% cut, no good 'coz I still have 20% left-over that I have to do. So step one is I need this flushed. Step two is going to be once I have this flushed, how do I make it blend with the rest of the frame so I don't have an outline that shows that there was a tab there at one time. Those are gonna be some of the finishing techniques that we're gonna talk about today. While I have these frames out though, I kinda wanna show you what typical Polymer80's using this method look like. Let's take a couple of different ones that I use for training. Let's see. Alright, so let's look at this one. This one here is a good example. So this is, if we look at this, get a close-up shot of that, this is typically what it looks like when they do a cut. And as you can see, right here, it's burned up, let me turn around that side, it's burned up. It doesn't look good and it looks real messy. But this is typical of what most Polymer80s look like when you get her naked, right? You pull her apart, that's what she looks like. That, my friends, is trash. It's no good and it's certainly not pride in the work and is certainly not first-hand quality. And I'm gonna say it again. This doesn't hurt the function of the weapon at all because the rear rail system fits in there fine with that but that looks awful. That looks awful. We're not gonna have that. Let's see if we got another one, what's this one here? That one's got some rails on it. Here is another good example. So here is an FDE frame and again, here is some cuts, a little flushed, a little more flushed than the 80% which is fine but look at it. It's all burned and chewed up, doesn't look good. That's not first time quality. Again, this weapon will function just fine because I'll put the front locking block in here and that will sit higher than this 'coz that's the whole point, right, get the tabs below in most people's mind, so that I can fit the front locking block in and then the slide can go on my rails. But the problem is that you could see that through the rail. So if I look at one that has a rail on it, front locking block on it, I can still see that entire area where the tab was and was located. This is typically what we see. It's just no good. When I get the 17 back again, and we look at this, I got this big burst sticking up that are no good. Big burst, looks really rough. Oh sometimes people take it a step further and they do have pride in their work. What they're doin' is they're wet-sanding it down a little bit, trying to wet-sand it down, make it look a little better, and you know what, hey that's good to go. Good on you not accepting really bad cuts and wanting to get to first time quality. But wet-sanding has issues when it comes to dealing with plastics especially as far as polishing the blend to get it there, it makes everything nice and chalky. And yeah, we get all the way up through our ranks to the 2000 wet-sanding and it looks a hell of a lot better but it takes forever to even get that. Now that is far better than that side. I mean, there's just an enormous contrast. And so, I applaud people taking that step further. But today, what we're gonna do is I'm gonna show you how to get it exactly like it should be, where everything blends nice, nice, nice and everything works together so it looks like a smooth transition over the entire frame of the weapon. That's what we're gonna focus on. I'm gonna put this tragedy and all this stuff away we're not gonna use any of this stuff, we're gonna lock it in a box and stay away from it. Now let's talk about the tools we are gonna use and how we're gonna use each one. Notice all those other tools are gone, we're not using them. Now, I have some tools here for those of you who are not extremely comfortable with the dremel. I'm gonna show you some steps you can do before we get into final blend and things like that to make sure that you're staying on target for that first time quality. I want you to understand that a lot of this stuff comes with experience and practice. I have an Xacto kit. I'm gonna put this right over here with the Xacto kit. This is just a straight-edge cutter. When we come to the dremel piece of it, nobody's using flex shafts and I don't really understand why, maybe they're not familiar with how dremel works. But the flex shaft is a tool that is absolutely, positively necessary for first-hand quality when it comes to building a Polymer80. A dremel is a big tool and it's really difficult to manipulate it. And it's formed like this. Especially for all the work that we wanna do, we wanna be very precise and on-target. The flex shaft, as a pen tool, allows us that perfect smooth blend, perfect smooth cuts in everything that we're doin'. So a flex shaft is an absolute necessity for first time quality. You don't want to use this tool by itself, it's just too much. Other things that we have. This first couple of things are diamond bits, these are diamond bits that we're gonna do for fine cutting, fine cutting, that's what we're gonna use a diamond bit for. Again, I'll have links to all of this stuff that you need in the the description. I may use some of them, I may use all of them, I may only use one, alright? The initial cut is going to tell me. This one is extremely coarse and hard and as I move down I have different types of bits that I use as diamond cutters. We'll see which ones I'm going to use. Once that piece is done, once I get it flushed and I'm done with diamond, and I'm done with the Xacto and the knives, I'm as flat as I'm gonna be, well then it comes down to now we need to work on the first time quality piece of it. We need to get it smooth and flushed. This is where I'm gonna use a combination of things in conjunction with each other. I'm gonna go back and forth between them all. We have a buffer. This is a buffer, it's an impregnated buffer, fantastic dremel tool. This is a hard polisher. Now, I have a whole bunch of different sizes here because again, as I get in, I might need to switch to different sizes. But I want you to understand something. This is a hard, right, a medium-sized polishing bit. It is not what comes in your dremel kit which is a felt-type polisher, okay? You're not gonna use this on this project. If you start using this, number one, it's not gonna polish anything, and number two, this is best used for metal. This is just gonna throw the fine fibers all over your Polymer80. It's just gonna throw, it's gonna look like your Polymer80 had a fight with a cat and the hair is all over it. I want you to understand that when you're looking at this, I know on camera they look very similar, they're not. This is much harder than this fibrous-type bit. So, I may use that, I may not, I don't really know until I get into the fine work and see, but I have it just in case. Then we have a completely-impregnated polishing kit of all different sizes. Now these tools are gonna be like magic for us as we get into that first time quality piece at the end. I'm gonna go back and forth because as I use these, they're gonna tell me any imperfection that I have or anything that I'm not seeing clearly as I'm going through the different stages. It's just gonna clean it up for me and allow me to see that mirror finish and see where I need to go back and either take off a little more or buff a little more or polish a little more. These impregnated-type polishers are fantastic. It's very important to understand that speed of the dremel is a priority here. If you are in the wrong speed and you're spinning a little too slow, it's gonna skip and chip away at the Polymer80 wherever you touch it on to the frame and it's not gonna smoothly grow across. The second piece that I am sayin' is that if I'm too high and I put it to the Polymer I'm gonna have that burning smell, of it burning as it's going through, that's an indicator that I have to keep it down. If you have a dremel that has speed control, you wanna be on 12, 13 throughout anyone of these, and I'll cover that as we go through. The last tool is a pair of fret cutters. This looks real similar, right, to these end nips that we have, we talked about this. And we said that the problem with the end nips is it's only taking off 80% of what we need to take off with the tab, and I want you to understand that the reason why is because it's curved, it's angled like this on this tool. When I put it in the tab, the teeth are also angled down so it's not just the machining of the tool but the blade itself is in, so when I clamp down, it's clamping in and it's not getting a flush cut on the tab. It's not occurring because of that angle. So it's no good. I want to be able to cut down as flat as possible. So that's a little different than what we have here which is a fret cutter. Fret cutter is smooth and flat across the top, it's a little different. A fret cutter is gonna get in here. By the way, a fret cutter's extremely sharp, so we need to check, double check and re-check that we're right where we need to cut 'coz the minute I hit it like that, even if I got the frame it's gonna cut the sidewalls right out of your frame. But, anyway, this is gonna allow me a much more perfect cut whereas this is doing about 80% of the cut. This is gonna get me to about 98%, 99% of the cut and then I just gotta clean it up. A fret cutter is used in musical instruments. It's a fantastic tool. So again, this was a great idea, it was just the wrong one. I'll have a link in the description to getting yourself a fret cutter in order to do this job. So this is the laying of the layout of our tools. So let's get some framework out here and let's stop to look at how we put this all together. See how I'm completely flushed with the outside of the frame? You see that? It's completely flushed with the outside of the frame. I am gonna get a perfect cut, nice and flushed when I do that. The inside of the frame is the same thing. It's nice and flushed and up towards the inside of that tab. Apply some pressure and cut it off. It will still come off in one nice big piece. Perfect, right? And look, that's the front end, that's the back end, it looks like one big perfect piece. 98% is off. Got a little bit, a little 2% that we need to get rid of here then we need to do a blend. And then I got all my stuff out here. There's a couple of things that I want to show you, though, before I tackle this. If you look at a black frame, they have runs, some type of polishing up here on either side of the front of the frame. And what's occurred is as they were doing that, so if we can think about in the world of the dremel, the dremel spinning, spinning, spinning, they're trying to polish the front of this, right, Spinning, spinning, spinning, and then the machine is stopping right there. If you look inside your frame you're gonna see an indentation with this extra material. It's gonna be like a bump where it comes up like this and it's taken little micro-pieces of that Polymer as it were trying to polish it and then stopped here and left a deposit of extra material there. As I come down and try to smooth out on this side, I'm gonna try to come around a little bit and blend some of that, just so you understand the blemishes that are on these during the manufacturing, machining process. Don't get me started on glock because let me tell you, I love glock, but you and Marine Gun Builder have to have some first time quality chats there, Mr. Glock. I'm gonna start with this bit. This is the rough one, I'm gonna start with that one. I'm gonna lightly come back and forth over it but before I do, this one is the most dangerous bit. These other diamond ones, the polisher ones, I can hit stuff left and right and it's not gonna mar anything on the frame. I think of this like that sanding drum. If I'm coming across and I hit something, it's gonna leave marks all over the place. We don't want that trash, that's not good. So what I'm gonna actually do is just get a little piece of tape here and I'm just gonna tape of that front a little bit so just in case I nick it which certainly highly possible, that I don't mar anything else on the frame that I'm spending so much good time trying to get perfect. Now, again as I've told you in the previous videos, and why, you're going over to Facebook group, by the way, why that's occurring is because anything is fixable. And I keep saying that don't get discouraged if you hit something or you nick something, we have all the work arounds that you need to make sure it's a perfect built. Let's turn this on. Let's get busy, baby! When I do this I always want to keep the dremel moving. If you stay in one spot, you're gonna create an indentation and it's not gonna look right. So the dremel is always moving. You see the little pieces coming off? Alright, good enough. So now, as you see, just, this is it. This little fine dust that was here, that's all we took off What do we say? A clean workspace is a workspace of, you got it, quality. I'm gonna take this bad boy off. I'm all done with this one. I don't need to come back to this at all until we do another tab. We got it all, alright.. I'm gonna take one of my diamonds here, maybe a thicker one. Put this in, turn unit down and now we're gonna do, is we're just gonna use this to come along and flush it out. So you're quaking off onto the tape, gonna get us nice and flushed, perfect! That whole outline of the tab will be gone. Put some black tape down the channel here, one to cover the little rivets that hold on the front rail because we want to do a little bit of polishing and I don't want any polish to get down there and get stuck and dry up over time. Same thing kind of over the chin. Just as a precautionary method. But this looks absolutely beautiful all the way through. We could never tell that there was a tab there. I mean, just phenomenal-looking all the way around. What we're gonna do, though is polish it up and make it look pretty and we'll be good to go after this final stage. What I'm gonna do is I got some Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer by Meguiar's. Give it a good shaking Just gonna put a little bit right like that on my cardboard. I'm gonna take a microfiber towel, scan a little corner, just gonna dab it like that and I'm gonna start to work it in, little circles all the way down this rail here. As I'm working this in what we're seeing is it's really absorbing right into the plastic. That's why I love this stuff. It's just so good. Obviously it's made for cars but it looks so great when you put it on a car and then over time the sun beats on it just any other but the great thing about this is that it's never gonna really be exposed to the sun for long periods of time. It's always gonna have that nice, rich, wet look to it. We are tab-tastic! My goodness! You can't find this stuff on any other channel, c'mon now, that's all trash! We do it right the first time. So we're back. This looks absolutely phenomenal, beautiful, right from the factory floor. But what I want to do is also give you some options should you want to do some different types of finishes. This is one finish that we just, we can end with after we polish, or we can do a couple of other different types of buffing and polishing, have a different type of blend. I call this the standard one which is really, more or less, how frames mostly come But let's say we want to do a little something maybe buffed out. At this step, all we have to do is get our buffer and turn it on and just give it a quick buff. Alright, so here we go. Now all that really does is make this whole side here just a little smoother, just a little shinier, but you might like that finish a little bit better. One last finish I'm gonna go over with you is with our impregnated polisher. It's just gonna give it more of a gloss sheen to it. I'm gonna go ahead and swap that out. What we gonna do now is just go in same direction all the way down. And I'm not gonna stay in one spot, I gotta keep this movin' at all times. Nice and lightly all the way up. And you'll see, just as it gets a little sparkle, kind of like we put glitter inside it. Nice and gentle. Alright, it gets a little sparkle, I don't know if you could see that in the light, but just a little sparkle there. Nothing too fancy. But that's it, my friends. So you can do that as much or as little as you like and I don't like too much glitter, kind of walkin' sparklin' but this looks fantastic, it looks great and now we have to do is repeat this process on the other ones, my friends, and we have become tab-tastic! And there it is, a beautiful, tab-tastic Polymer80. She looks absolutely stunning, absolutely gorgeous, just how we want her. Hey listen! If you haven't already subscribed, please hit subscribe. And most importantly, you need to head out over to Facebook and like the Marine Gun Builder page. Also, join my group, Guns Ammo Hunting Preparedness. The link will be down there in the bottom. I give all free giveaways there, you don't want to miss a thing. Alright, for you, Protectors, that's it for today. Simplify, do or die!

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