Polymer80 Pro Series - Perfect Pins

Updated: Jul 21, 2019

Full Video Transcript

- Welcome back, my freedom protectors. Hey listen, today on the Marine Gun Building Channel getting perfect pins. The most misunderstood part of the entire Polymer80 build. The thing that everybody out there's getting wrong and leading to so many problems. But don't you worry Marine Gun Builder's gonna square you away today. But listen, if this is your first time joining us welcome, go ahead and hit subscribe and turn on notifications. Your Polymer80 will be so thankful that you did. You ready to go pro? Well then roll the intro. Alright, so we've got the Polymer80 kit laid out. Right jig, got a coyote frame. Comes with this drill bit that nobody uses anymore but when we get to the channel piece of it I'm gonna show you a trick to use for that. We've got our two bits, an M3 bit, a three millimeter bit and an M4 bit, four millimeter bit. We have our two pins and our front locking block and our rear rail system. Alright so that's it. So for the pins we've got two M3s to drill and one M4. Now I use the word drill lightly, right. We use the word drill lightly because the last thing we wanna do here is actually use a drill. This is the absolute worst tool to use for this. Now as we already know, and I talked about this a drill is used for heavy torque, right? Heavy torque. Grinding in, and it's no good. And I want you to understand that it's also a 90 degree angle tool, right? It's a 90 degree angle tool. And so when I grip it and even though I'm trying to drill straight, it's impossible to drill straight in. And if the pin is off or a hole is off even just by a little bit you're gonna get some flex on your rails. Make sense? Alright, so we're not gonna use that tool. What we're gonna use is our handy dandy and our trusted Dremel. I'm gonna show you how we're gonna use that to do the hole because a Dremel is built for speed. Right, so if you've ever done this before and you've used a drill you'll know that you actually have to push down in it, right? The bit doesn't do all the work you gotta push down in it. And then you pull it out and it's filled with not only the polymer but all pieces of the orange jig. Now we would expect some of the jig because it's a very tight fit into the hole here but it comes out with a lot when we use a drill because all that torque is grinding in there and by the way, that's also burring up your hole and causing your pins not to fit correctly and this is another piece that we're gonna address while we do this, okay? So a drill is not the tool that we're gonna use for this project. Now you're gonna see when I use this Dremel there is no pushing, there is no grinding, no torque it's literally... I'm gonna put it in, and zoom! It's gonna be done that fast. And that's exactly what we want. We want a nice, clean quick cut, alright. So we'll go ahead. We're gonna do the M3 holes first and I'm gonna work on the M3 holes and then we'll do the M4, okay because that's a little bit different it's a little different when we use the M4. So pretty simple. We take our M3 bit and we put it in our Dremel. Go ahead and tighten that up. Get it nice and locked in there on our collet. Okay. I'm using a Dremel 4000 but whatever Dremel you have I'm gonna set it to 15, okay. So when I set it to 15. So if you don't have a 4000 that's roughly the speed you're looking for, okay? I'm gonna get a block. I'm gonna put my jig right there. Now how I'm gonna do this again, this is nice and straight this is gonna help me keep it nice and straight because it's a straight tool. So I'm gonna put the bit into the hole, okay? I'm gonna face the power button towards me so that I can go in straight down and then I'm gonna turn it off. So I'm gonna show you. Now watch how fast this is. Done. You see that? Bang, in. No work, no nothing, just punctured the hole and in. Okay. Now I turn it off and actually look at there's barely anything on this bit itself barely anything. If you have ever done this with a drill and by the way, if you're new welcome to the channel congratulations on learning how from the beginning to do a Poly 80 correctly but for those that have built other ones they will tell you that this the bit is just filled with junk, okay? And it's because you're chewing up your pinholes and you're chewing up your jig which all equals loosey-goosey pin creep. Right? You start to have pin creep out, no good. So now I'm gonna flip it over and I'm gonna do this side of the M3 of the grip in the rear. So again, I'm putting it in nice and straight and then I'm on 15 and I'm just gonna go in. And that's it. Done. Even if you look at the hole in this jig you can't even tell that I drilled through it, okay? The hole in the jig is untouched. I'm gonna do the other M3 which is up here, alright on both sides. I'm gonna put my jig down and I'm gonna repeat that same process. Put the bit in, I'm lined up nice and straight turn it on. Just like that. Very quick. Quick and dirty. Alright, M3 in. Just like that. Alright. So I'm gonna put the Dremel aside for now. Actually, let's get rid of this box. A clean workspace is a workspace of quality so I'm gonna put this stuff aside. I'm just gonna keep my pins out and my... Well I'll keep one pin out for this moment and my rare ray, okay? Put my block away and clean up. Now this is so much cleaner than what we would normally have with a drill. Okay. Way cleaner. Alright, let's open up this bad boy. See how nice and tight it is still? That's what we wanna see. You'll notice too in here look, I don't have any I don't have any jig cutting, right? With a drill you're gonna get lots of drill burr cuts a lot of burring all around the holes when you use a drill. It's just the wrong tool for this and everybody uses it but... You know, this is why I wanted the Marine Gun Building Channel, right first time quality is our policy. Alright. Let's move this out of the way. Now. Talk about front-loading accountability. If we want a perfect end product then that means a perfect end product, that means we have to look at everything we're doing from the beginning. So this isn't, hey, drill holes go onto the next step, cut the taps do the channel alright, that's not what this is. Each step, especially at the beginning we need to make sure is perfect before we move on to the next thing because the last thing we wanna do is get all the way to the end go to fit our pins, they're not fitting properly they're not seating properly and one of two things happens. You've got people banging with all of the parts kit in here banging on pins trying to get it in. No bueno, that's no good. Or even worse, even worse, drilling you know, get everything in and then drilling through the frame through the rear block by the rare rail system and then they'll even drill while the trigger's in here the trigger assembly's in here bang, right? Opening all that up and then this pin just starts creeping or the rail's cockeyed it's wrong, it's not sitting in there flush I mean it's just a disaster, okay? So let's get these holes all set. Now you can notice if you look at my holes right, I don't have a hole bunch of burrs on the outside like I would with a drill. You know how many Polymer80s I've seen that are beautiful, right, got all these expensive slides on them, look gorgeous fancy stuff, and then they've got big burrs all on the outside of their drill holes because they used a drill and then still had their finger on the trigger as they were pulling it out and all those burrs came out. All this is no good and it's certainly not first time quality. Alright, so I'll shut up on the lecture for a moment. So what do we gotta do? Well, we gotta stop testing our pin set right now, okay? Does our pin fit in there? Now when a pin goes into the hole it should be a nice steady push all the way through if you did it correctly. Okay. And there it is, it sits good. Nice, steady push through. Alright. Should be no banging, none of that. Now I did that correctly so I'm not having any issues here. However, what I do wanna do is make sure that inside my hole is nice and clean because there's gonna be all sorts of debris especially if you did this with a drill not so much with a Dremel and actually, I have some pictures of this frame, I believe it is when it originally was cut with all the burrs so I'll take a high res photo of that but from looking at it from this distance you can't tell that how dirty it is inside that hole but when you take a high res photo of it boy you can really see all that junk in there. Alright. So the next thing I'm gonna do very quickly here is I'm gonna deburring tool, okay? This is a deburring tool. As always, I'll have all the tools that you see me use in any video in the description, right there'll be links to everything that you see me use. Alright, so this deburring tool comes with two pieces this is actually the metal piece so I need to take this off because we're going to be using plastic, alright? But guess where we're gonna use this one? If this doesn't line up perfectly which sometimes it doesn't we're not gonna use a drill, right a drill bit and go through again polymer and metal, we're not gonna do that we're gonna use the metal end of this deburring tool and we're gonna open that up a little bit and maybe use a metal bit, okay. But in the bottom here is the plastic one and you can tell the difference because the plastic one has a little tip at the end and it's black down here where the metal one is all machined. Okay. So we'll just put that aside for a second. Pretty simple, we just take it we put it in here like this, okay and then push down and it will lock into place so push in, I pulled it with my own strength and it locks into place, okay. Next thing I wanna do is I wanna take it and I'm gonna fit it into the hole, okay? Now this is the smallest it can do so I'm just gonna be real careful here and I'm gonna put it in so now it's in we see that poking out. Alright, and it's very simple all I'm gonna do is turn this and what the little blade does is get rid of any of the burrs that are on that hole. Okay. Now let's see if we can get a better shot of this we'll move this camera over here. So I have it in there, let me move this like this. So now you can see it and as I turn it it's getting rid of the burrs, okay. Alright. We'll do that side, then we'll come to the other side you see it right in there, just turning clean everything up for us. Okay. We'll do our middle ones, same thing, alright. In the middle, you're locked in right here so you can't get a full turn so you gotta kinda go back and forth on the bottom then turn it upside down and come this way on the top. Okay, that side. Then let's do this side. Same thing. Okay. Look, see, it's just taking off all that nonsense that's in there. So now I deburred, alright. We'll put this aside for now because we're gonna use that metal one, alright. I take my pins again, take my pin set and I'm gonna test the fit again. Good. And I don't have resistance, I don't have a problem the holes are very straight, they're not angled because if you did this wrong you're gonna be trying to bend the pin over a little bit left or right. It's nice and perfect, okay, just the way we like it. Pull that one out, try it up the middle. Wanna go to here too, kay. So... I am happy with that pin but we're not done yet. What we wanna do is we wanna test the metal piece, okay and we also wanna smooth out the holes we've deburred the inside but we wanna smooth out we're gonna have little burrs on the very edge, okay, the hole itself is deburred but in the middle here you'll see we'll have little ones that are sticking up and sticking out we wanna clean all that up so we have perfect holes. Okay. So what I'm gonna do is use some sandpaper some 150, I've got some 600, some 1500 and some 2000. Also, kinda my rule of thumb I know you're watching this one probably before you watch when I do taps and when I do channels, okay but as much as possible again, we're looking for that rolled off the factory line in perfect condition there should be no difference looking at a Polymer80 you built and a serialized frame there should be no difference and somebody should not be able to tell by when they strip the slide off and they look that this wasn't directly manufactured just like that as a serial frame that's what we're looking for, first time quality. Alright, so with that said anytime that we're gonna use sandpaper on the Polymer80 we're going to try every time, there's just a few cases when it comes to the taps. You know, you watch that video, I'll tell you. We wanna make sure that we're wet sand. Okay, it's always wet, that's why I have my trusted cup of water here. I'm gonna cut a couple little pieces and some wet sand paper. This is the 150. Alright. Pretty easy breezy, fo'sheezy. Nice. This just cleans up the burrs so good when it's nice and wet like that cause those burrs, they wanna come off but you don't necessarily wanna pull them off cause you could make the hole bigger but this just does such a good job at smoothing that out. So all I'm gonna do here is I'm gonna continue to do this smoothing everything out with the 150 then the 600, then the 1500, and then the 2000, okay? And notice that when I go in I'm only giving it a couple of turns, okay we're not going crazy sanding it cause we don't wanna make the hole bigger all we wanna do is after we've deburred the hole we wanna make it nice and smooth, right like it came out of the factory. That's exactly what we're looking for which is also gonna help us as we do this build and set our pins at the end. Alright, so that's basically what I'm gonna do. I won't bore you with each piece. Alright, so before we move on for those of you that wanna do a corrective action to your pinholes, in other words you've already built this and you used a drill and you drilled in, pulled out and you've got some outside roughage and slight burring on the outside which is what occurs this is what you're gonna do. You're gonna take some 2000 or 1500 but you know, 2000 is preferred. Get it nice and wet, kay, nice and wet like real wet, even put some of the water on the frame and then cover the hole, okay so I have a little strip but I got the hole covered. I'm gonna take my glock tool and I'm lightly gonna just press into the hole and just turn, just like this very easily and lightly, mkay. What this is gonna do, and then you'll feel it goes in a little bit, right just like this. Kay, then I'm gonna remove and you can see now, let's try to get a closeup of this. You can see, see the burring that was on the outside of that? See it right there it's all nice and wet and ready to just strip away and it's nice and smooth on the outside, right? So now I just get rid of it. There it is. And it comes off in one big string like that which is nice, okay. So I just give it a little yank and now that hole looks like it came from the factory. So to show you the difference when I do that method here's this side, straight off the factory floor. Alright, so here's this side. This is just a little bit with the Dremel, see it? See the difference, how beautiful that is? Right, and it's all smooth inside cause I just finished with the 2000 now it looks, I mean, absolutely amazing you can never tell we just drilled that hole. Alright, so I'm just gonna repeat the process here and on this side, here and here and we'll be ready to move on with the rest of our pin pieces. So when we get to the inside here, right there's always burrs on the inside just because of the way it drills. What I do is I kinda roll it up and I stick it in here and I leave just a little bit there, then I take my glock tool and I go into the middle of the roll. Like this, kay. Cause it's right up against the edge here and I just... Again, this is 2000. Keep it nice and wet. And I just get rid of those burrs like they never even existed, right so I'm kinda in, came out, opened up a hole here. See, if you can see that opened up a hole here and now I'm getting rid of all those burrs that happened as it comes through this piece here which holds our front locking block in place. Alright, and that's gonna be nice and smooth on the inside. Outside we already fixed, outside's looking mint but the inside is just as important, right? Alright. Right into that little hole. See, the drill bit kind of comes in here but then it clips this piece just a little bit on the frame and it always leaves some burrs there. This is the best way to just clean up that half a moon that the bit leaves. What's our policy? First time quality. Look, see it? See the piece that it left over right here? That piece right there. No good, right? There it is. That's in every single Polymer80 on the planet right now. Nobody ever gets rid of that. Can't have that, I don't want you to be telling that I drilled holes here. What're you talking about this is a serialized frame with no serial number. How about that trash? Alright, I'm gonna repeat that process on the other side. I'm gonna start getting ready to fit our rear rail. Alright, so sometimes you'll have a little stubborn piece in there, right? I mean we want it all gone, we want it looking mint. Sometimes you get a little stubborn piece. I'm gonna show you another little trick. I'm gonna take, and it doesn't happen all the time but if it does happen to you take a piece of paper, again nice and wet and I'm gonna just put it over the hole from the inside, okay, like this. Take the glock tool, come from the other side right, and then get it from here on this end and that cleans that right up. Rear rail section. So I'm gonna give you a little teaser right now for how to do your taps, okay, just a teaser. So basically what happens is every Dick and Tom and Harry on the planet is using this tool right here right, this is a Husky end nipper. No bueno. I'm gonna show you a better tool to use. The problem with this one is it's angled, right and when you clip it, it never takes the whole thing off at one shot never takes the whole thing off in one shot you have to for front-loading accountability in order to have that end accountability and have this beautiful and matching with the frame you need a flush cut in one shot. This ain't the tool to do that, folks, right. I'm not gonna show you the tool to do it on camera cause you're gonna subscribe and go watch that other video. So here's the thing. When you put this in, you see how you can see a little bit of metal there, alright? That's an issue. That's like on every build, okay, and what happens is is that people just drill this hole they go throughout, they do all their taps they do their channel, then they go to assemble they start assembling the frame, right and then they go to put their pin in and they put this in, they put the pin in and they're like, "Oh my god, it won't go in," right so then they start hitting it with a hammer and this is what I'm talking about. Now they see this and they drill while they've got all their internal parts in. That's what's causing this to be out of balance most of the time, alright? So what do we gotta do? Well, we're not gonna take the drill and go through the polymer which we have now perfectly to then hit the metal because listen I mean... The drill bit that you're using to go through the polymer isn't made from metal, number one, okay isn't made from metal, number one so when you're doing that you're actually widening this hole, making it bigger, alright again causing the pin to be out of place on the other side it's gonna be a little higher if you do that and then over time, and sometimes not even over time sometimes you just ruin the build because your pin will never sit in there it'll be loosey goosey and you're like "Okay, it's loose but it's still usable" and then you start shooting and you start to get pin creep, alright, and what I mean by pin creep is it starts to creep out on you and that's no good. So what do we gotta do? Well that's why we watch this channel. So almost always, almost always let me see if I can get the right angle here almost always it's just the bottom piece that is showing, almost always that's the issue, okay. So I'm gonna take this out and what I need to do, I'm gonna leave that alone I need to widen out the bottom here just this bottom half of the circumference. So yeah, you can use the bit that it came with to do some of what I'm gonna do here, okay, you could but if you have a Dremel which you should because it is the best tool on earth in my opinion, next to a gun it comes with a bit that is the same size, see but look at how it's machined to really cut and dig. So what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna put the Dremel on a lower speed here. Alright, that's it. And you're just gonna go back and forth, alright so much and much lower now, alright we're almost there, we just got a little bit here. So we're all smoothed out. I don't see any metal here, I don't see any there. I've got my pin. Sinks in the way it should. Alright, I gotta put some light over here. So we're right on the hole like we should be. So we're pretty much good to go, folks. Alright, so our M3s are all good to go everything's looking sweet I went ahead and taped this jig because as you open it you'll get some space in there you don't want any of that trash so tape that up. I always use black tape, you know blue tape isn't as sticky duct tape way too strong, black conforms to all of the jig really nice and keeps it tight so I always use black tape and we're gonna use black tape up here too when we tape off the gun. But we're at M3. M3s are done, we need to move on to this M4. So now with the M4, you have your four millimeter bit that Poly 80 sends you in the kit, right kind of come through here, bang. But here's the issue. With our Dremel, the collet doesn't fit a four millimeter bit, right it's too small, the collet's too small and so I know you're probably thinking "Well, Marine Gun Builder, just get a different collet "get a bigger one." To which I would say, listen Simon. Listen Simon, the biggest collet they make still doesn't fit a four millimeter bit. Oh, and by the way, you see this thing? You know what this is? Oh, look how nice that fits in there, perfect, right? None of this trash all over the place. Woo! Alright, we'll get back to that. So the problem is that we can't fit this into a Dremel so you need a specialty bit, okay. And specifically you're gonna need Dremel's specialty kit so Dremel makes a specialty kit that looks like this with some brad point bits. This is what it looks like, okay. This one here is a 532nds so I'm gonna take this one out. Again, all of the links will be down in the description for you to go ahead and grab this stuff, okay. So this is a 532nd bit this is what we're gonna use. Now you can see what they do is they decrease the width of the shank so that it fits in a standard collet, right, pretty genius. But I know you're probably saying to yourself again "Marine Gun Builder, what are you talking about? "You said it was a 4 millimeter bit. "What are you talking about, 532nds bit? "I don't know what you're talking about." And I would say, you know what people just a little bit of trust little bit of trust goes a long way. So a 532nd standard is equivalent to a four millimeter so that's what we're gonna use. But before we do that, I did realize something that I did a little bit early with you where I used this block and I went like this and you saw me kinda go in the M3s. Understand that I have done dozens and dozens of these builds and I have decades of experience with a Dremel and I'm always conscious of brand new people because I feel that they're the most important people coming into the gun world as our new people that we need to educate them I mean they're the ones gonna be carrying all of our freedom and all of the fight for the second amendment forward so I am going to backtrack a second when I do this M4 and I'm gonna show you the best way to get the most precise cut, okay. So it's gonna be a technique that you're going to use to ensure first time quality if you don't have a lot of experience with a Dremel. Alright, so what are we gonna do? First thing we need is our desktop vice, okay so here's our desktop vice. I'm gonna take the jig, we're gonna do the M4 and on either side that doesn't change. When I put it into the vice, okay this is important, don't put it dead center like this because you're not gonna be grabbing enough of the jig. You wanna kinda come on this end where we have the flat towards the bottom and we've got several pieces that this side of the vice can grab onto, okay so we're just gonna tighten that up. By the way, this is how the jig goes. It goes flat like this on its back there's been so many videos I've seen where they've got it upright and they're drilling into it and doing stuff like that. My friends, that's not how this jig works, okay? This particular jig is designed to lay flat like this. Okay, enough of the talk. So now we need to do the M4. So like I said, we have our 532nd specialty Dremel bit okay, and I don't wanna just kinda come in here it's a brad point bit, okay I don't wanna just come in here and start going crazy with the Dremel so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna do... I'm gonna get my 90. So this is my 90, alright and I'm gonna use this as a way to start the hole so I'm gonna go ahead and just put this bit into this 90 collet and we're just gonna gently start the hole process. Alright, so I just moved the camera over here so that I wouldn't be blocking you cause I'm right-handed. Alright, so we have the M4 piece, kay I put this in the 90 collet but if you have the screwdriver adaptor you can do that too, whatever works cause I'm just gonna use it to start. With the 90 though, if I put it in and I start to turn it it's just gonna spin so I'm gonna take the actual M3 bit and I'm gonna use that here as a chuck to keep that from turning, okay. So I'm gonna put it in the M4 hole again, first time quality, right? Why not take our time here. So I'm just gonna start it just like this. What's nice about this desktop vice I use it all the time I'll have a link for that in the description but it's heavy enough that it doesn't move, right but it's not stationary on my desk where I don't have a lot of room and I can easily move it from place to place to place. They're really worth every penny. Okay, so I'm happy with that one. So what I'm gonna do now is I'm actually gonna just drill this hole so I'm gonna take this out of my 90. Alright, so now I have it in the Dremel. Okay, now here's the technique. Probably gonna see it from above the best. This is gonna ensure... Let me just move this over a little bit. This is gonna ensure an absolute perfect flush cut, okay because number one, I'm locked in the jig, right there would be no chance as like I was on the block to kind of miss, alright but I'm gonna put the wire over the back of my shoulder right, so coming over my shoulder like so and then I'm gonna put the bit in, kay so now you see if I have two hands... Let me see if we can move this around a little bit. If I have two hands here my elbows are on the desktop. I'm gonna be able to push down and keep this as straight as possible, right the power button's facing me here and I'm gonna push down and I'm gonna be right on the money, okay? And there's no chance this limits any possible chance that I would be flexing too much. So probably a really good idea again, as I said, to do this as the M3s also, alright. So here we go, I'm just gonna remember 15 in it goes in and comes right out. That's it, done. Man, this process with the Dremel is just incredible. Okay, so this side is finished. So now I'm just gonna loosen up the vice a little bit we're gonna flip it around and do the other side, okay. Come on this side, again making sure that I'm flush on the bottom and I'm across all my top grips here from my M4. Alright, gonna repeat that process so I'm not gonna just go in and drill right now because I wanna make sure I'm started with this brad pit. Bit, this brad bit. I'm gonna take that, I'm gonna go back to my 90, right I'm gonna put this M3 as my chuck again I'm gonna tighten everything down and I'm just gonna do a little starter stuff cause it's not even just this bit you have to understand that even with the M4 bit that they give you look, I can't really get it in the hole it's tight, right? So even if you weren't using this method I suggest taking the four millimeter and grinding out a little bit of that tight jig till you make contact with the frame but I don't know what I'm thinking when I'm saying that, like you wouldn't do this method. What, do you wanna do it the hard, inconvenient non first quality way? Come on now. Ooh, we gotta put the chuck in. Alright, there we go. Coming through. Just like that. So you see a little bit of pieces of the jig coming up which is fine. Again, this helps from us using too much torque and pushing the orange jig burrs into the frame of our 80. So here we go. I made contact, okay. Alright. Very good. So we're gonna take this out swap it back into our Dremel same thing, bang into the Dremel. By the way, you see how they cut the shank make sure it's flush all the way down. A lot of times what we'll do with Dremels we let stuff stick out, okay seed it all the way in. Alright, here we go. So cord over the shoulder, power button facing me. Elbows on the table, bit in the hole I'm on 15, nice straight shot down. Let me move this, right, cause now we're on the other side. Nice straight shot down. See if we can go low. Perfect. Alright, my elbows firmly on the table my grip is tight with two hands I have my finger on the power button I'm on 15 and I'm gonna go straight down and in. Done. Oh my god, so easy. Alright, so that's the M4 hole. Nice, easy, and done, okay? Then we would repeat that process of we were doing earlier with deburring and sanding and getting that all squared away. Alright, so now everything's all set all our holes are drilled. I wanna talk real quick about hot fixes. Let me say this first. You know, don't get discouraged when you're building a Polymer80. Here's the one thing I know for sure again, after dozens of them and teaching it everything is fixable, okay so don't get discouraged but when it comes to the pin holes specifically, okay what I want you to understand here is if your pins aren't lining directly up again we're testing them but they're not lining directly up it's never the initial hole that's the problem it's the inside that usually warps it as it's going in because the first contact you make is from the jig to the outside of the frame so that's actually gonna be correct. It's as the bit twists through that it can angle, mkay? And that's what causes that problem. Obviously with a drill you have more chance of that because the torque, when the grinding is so hard. It's important to understand this concept. Once you drill this hole, you never go back to the tool that you drilled it with. I'm gonna say that again. I don't care if you did use a drill which you shouldn't be, but if you used a Dremel once I drill this hole and I go to fit my pins and they're not lining up, I am not gonna get frustrated and go back and start coming in and out of here. We drill it once from each side and we're done. After that, everything there is gonna be hand fixed, okay we're gonna fix it by hand because what's not fixable is if I make that hole too big pfft, forget about it. So look, let's say up here my pin isn't aligning perfectly across both sides, okay and I'm like, oh man, so I get the drill I come in and I ruin it. So what you're gonna do is you're gonna take the M3 bit and you're just gonna come in from one side, okay and all I'm gonna do is I'm gonna put the bit into the jig and I'm gonna start to turn it. If I feel any resistance, that tells me right away if I feel any resistance as I'm turning and pushing through that tells me that I'm not dead on, okay and so what you can do is just turn it by hand and open up that hole. Now if you were way off, like you did it with a drill okay, you were way off you're gonna feel so much resistance that you can't even spin the bit like this so in those cases, again, the problem is inside, not outside so don't worry about your aesthetics outside cause that's gonna be fine but if you can't, then what you do is you get to the point of resistance you simply get a pair of pliers and you twist through the resistance, okay? And then you go all the way over to the other side making sure that you're nice, straight and level and if you don't have any resistance you're good but once again, if I feel resistance then I'm taking this and I'm coming all the way through, okay until I'm perfectly outside, perfectly straight just like that, I mean, absolutely beautiful, okay. Then what I do is just to double check I go in from the other side just to make sure. Okay, I don't have any resistance I don't have any resistance I keep spinning nice and slow all the way through and look, now this hole is dead on. Alright, I already even test fitted the pin but I got a tiny resistance coming in this way, tiny bit so what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna twist right through it and bang, I'm through. Now I know that this hole is 100%. Okay, so that's just a quick little fix. And so there she is. Perfect pins, baby. She looks beautiful, nice and smooth no burrs, 100% she's ready to go. She's ready for assembly. Oh wait a minute, she's not cause you guys gotta watch the blemish video. Got this beautiful Polymer80 and everybody's got this injection mold blemish behind the trigger. You're gonna go watch that video next but before you do that you need to head on over to Facebook and like the Marine Gun Builder Facebook page and when you're done with that you gotta join Guns, Ammo, Hunting Preparedeness. That's Marine Gun Builder's exclusive group where I give free giveaways to all of you the freedom protectors. Alright, that's it for today my friends. Semper fi, do or die.

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