Polymer 80 Pro Series - Frame Assembly

Updated: Jul 21, 2019

Full Video Transcript

- Welcome back, my beloved freedom protectors. Today, on the Marine Gun Building channel, I'm gonna teach you how to prep your frame, and prep your parts for first time quality. But listen, if this is your first time here, welcome, my freedom protector, to the Marine Gun Building channel. Go ahead and hit subscribe, turn on notifications. You don't wanna miss a thing. It's time to go pro.

- [Man] Get some! Get some! Get some, get some, come on!

- [Kenneth] All right, freedom protectors, now the fun begins. We got our build done. We're ready for assembly. But we're not just gonna take our parts, and just throw them in to the Polymer80 frame. That's not first time quality. So, I'm gonna show you is how to prep the frame. That's important. And prep the parts, to go into the frame, okay? And I'm gonna do it a little different than I would do a standard Glock, because the reality is, is this is not a Glock. This is a Polymer80. All right? And I'm gonna explain some of that as we kinda go through. So, we got the Polymer80 stuff here, we got an OEM kit. With the OEM kit, we'll just dump this all out, and we'll sort it out. A couple more pins in there. With your OEM kit, right? You got your trigger, your trigger bar. You got your trigger housing, with a 336 ejector, which is absolute junk, and that is going. We have our connector, five and a half pound, standard Glock connector. And we have our trigger spring. So, those, we'll kinda keep together, cause those work together. We have our mag release, and our mag release spring. Put those over here for now. We have our slide stop, okay, put that up there. We have our lock and glock pin, our trigger pin. Put those with our other pins. And we have our takedown lever, and our takedown spring, all right? So, that's everything that is inside your OEM kit. All right, so, first what we gotta understand here is what components interact with the other components, okay? And so, there's three types of interactions that happen inside the frame, all right? The first, we'll take the trigger bar, and we'll take a connector. The first is metal to metal contact, okay? So, here's our trigger bar, it's coming into our connector, the take up comes in, right? Hits the angle of our connector, and bang. So, the first type of contact we have, interaction of materials, is two pieces of metal hitting each other. Okay, so, listen, that's been around for a long time, right? We know, a little bit of oil, or in this case, we're gonna use polish, we can make those two things interact really well with each other. The second type of interaction is gonna be metal to plastic, okay? So, the first piece of that, we're just gonna put this connector in for a second, and then, I'll show you with it out, okay, but we can think about it here, right? Bang, right? So, we have metal up here, it's on our shelf, comes down, boom, fire. But along the back here, we have metal hitting the plastic. See it right here? All right, we wanna make sure that that plays nice with each other. So, now look, metal on metal's easily taken care of with polish, and plastic, with a quick little buff, and metal, play really nice together, as well. All right, so, the next piece, though, is going to be the polymer, all right? If we put the trigger in here, you'll notice on the polymer frame, we have three raised protrusions. The back of the trigger bar rests up against there, okay? And so, as this trigger is going back and forth, it's rubbing on those raised polymer pieces. Now, that's done intentionally to keep this trigger bar where it should be, okay? However, that's not gonna play too nice, okay? And so, what we need to do is, and, oh, here's the key word. Whenever we talk about anything, we're not smoothing anything. In other words, we're never taking material away, whether we're working with metal, or we're working with polymer, we're never taking material away, so we're not smoothing, what we're trying to do is get it slick, okay? There's a difference. And so, what we need to do here, with the frame, is I wanna make that rear piece of the polymer, I don't wanna take away material, cause it's holding it in, but I wanna make it slick, so I have really nice action in here, okay? It's nice and smooth, and I have no chances for any type of hiccup. Now this is an extremely important piece, because, if you've ever owned a Glock, if you ever fired a Glock, you'll know, when you go to clean it, you have marks on the back of your bar, and you'll always have marks in here, right? Why? Because that's rubbing so hard, so fast, together, okay? Same thing with the Polymer80, if you've ever taken the Polymer80 out firing, you look in there, you'll see the marks that happen, okay? So, we need to take care of some of that in there. And then, the last kind of interaction that happens is with the metal injected molded pieces. In this case, it's our takedown lever, okay? Which is probably a terrible part that Glock has made. If we can focus in on this, if we can get a close in. Let's see if it focus, I mean, look how dirty and terrible that is. I mean, that's just a bad stamped piece, all around. And so, I always change this out, as well. But in this case, I just want a metal one, but I wanna show you, so now, we have metal injected molding interacting with polymer, okay? That's the least likely friendship that occurs, okay? Cause it's kinda rubber, almost, right? And rubber's not a really good thing to interact with other components. Okay, so that's enough of that. So, that's basically what we have here that we need to prep, in order to put in the frame, and then we'll talk about assembly, and I'm gonna give you all of the keys to the kingdom, when it comes to assembling it with first time quality, and without hiccups, okay? So, the first thing that we need to do, let me just take this connector out for a second. The first thing that we need to do is get rid of this ejector, because I have the ejection videos gonna be coming out, it just plagues our community, but I'm gonna do this piece now here, I'm gonna talk so much in-depth in that video, because it's gonna help you all get to the root cause of it, and kinda just rid it out of the Polymer80 community, okay? So, I can't use this 336 ejector, cause I'm just gonna run into a myriad of problems, and so, Brownells is always good, right? $4.99, you can get the gen four ejector, which is the 3274, and, I mean, right away, before you even look at the difference, I mean, look, it already comes polished, right? How fantastic is that? But, I don't wanna get into an ejection video here, because, like I said, there is so much more to it than just this, and I happen to be using a 3274 here, but there are other ejectors that I cover in that video, and so, don't just copy me, okay? Make sure you watch that video, it's probably the most important video that I've ever made, because it is just one of those things where we can't afford to have any type of ejection issue if we're in that moment of truth, okay? But with the gen four, housing doesn't fit in our polymer frame, right? So, I can't just say, hey, I don't need this part, and boom, put it in. So, what I'm gonna do is, I'm just gonna take this ejector out, this ejector out of this housing, and I'm gonna swap it in here, okay? So, this is our gen three, the 336, all right? And I'm just right here in the back, you can see it's protruding out a little bit, all right? So, you can just take a small screwdriver, and just push that straight through, okay? To the other side. You don't wanna come through the front here, and grab pliers, and pull on this, and bend it. I mean, actually, it doesn't matter, cause it's 336, but specifically, when we're gonna use the one that we want, we don't wanna do that. So, I just take the screwdriver, and I push it right through. So, you can use a small screwdriver. See, it comes right out. You can use a small screwdriver. If you don't have a small screwdriver small enough to fit in that little hole, a little punch does the same thing. You just put the punch in, and voila, it comes out, 336, I mean, that can go right in the garbage, absolute the worst part that Glock has ever made in the history of the Glock company. I know, Glock minions, I'll be waiting for you to hit me up in the comment section, and tell me all about how great Glock parts are. But that's okay, I'm not here for them, I'm here for the freedom protectors that subscribe to this channel, and make sure that you guys have 100% builds. All right, so, here is our 3274, nice, nice, okay, so now, all we have to do is put it in place. Okay, now, when you put it in place, you just come in from the front, okay? Push it straight in. Now, you have to make sure it's seated. See, now, it looks like it's in, it's not fully seated, you got that little gap. You've got to make sure that that is fully seated. So, you can take your little screwdriver, and push it in, there. And then just give it one more nudge here, all right? And check it in the back, make sure you see it protruding out, just like that. And you are good to go, it's fully seated, okay? All right, so, that's our 3274 ejector in our trigger housing. It's already polished for us, so, hey, that saves us a step, too, okay? So, now that is good to go. The next piece we're gonna work on is polishing our metal components, okay? So, with the trigger bar, we're gonna not only polish the whole thing, but we're gonna pay particular attention to some of the key areas here, on our trigger bar. So, again, we're here, with our connector, okay? And we're coming in, boom, right? So, look, right in here, we're paying particular attention to, cause that's where , our magic happens, okay? So, I'm gonna pay particular attention to that area there, same thing on the connector all in here, we're gonna polish the whole thing, but particular attention in there around the bevel, okay? Same thing coming up, all around our cruciform in here, everything there. Now this is, the top piece where it's bent, boom, right? Hitting that striker, done. Our shock fin, same thing, take a nice time polishing that up, all beautiful, beautiful, okay? Connector, we're gonna polish that, as well, okay? Then, we're gonna talk about polishing some of these rails. We want these as smooth as possible, so that the slide can come over that without any hiccups, okay? So, we're gonna polish this, we're gonna polish that. That's already been polished, so that's kinda done for us. All right, so we're gonna do some polishing here, all right? I have the Flitz polishing, okay? And so, all I'm gonna do is come over here, I like to put a little bit on a piece of cardboard, rather than all over my finger, and then over here, all right? I would usually wear gloves for this, but I want you to see how disgusting this actually is. Take a look at a standard trigger, it comes out of the box, it's just, it's not polished, it's just stamped metal, okay? So, we're gonna work on that, we're gonna work on our rails, and we are gonna work on our connector, okay? So, I'm gonna take a little bit of this Flitz, and just gently rub it over my hard polisher, as always, all the tools in the description that you will ever need, okay? I'm just putting it on here, nice, nice, okay? We'll do the trigger first. So, remember, the back of that trigger bar is going up there, we're paying particular attention to that, and all around our cruciform, okay? So, what I'm gonna do is, I'm just gonna get some polish, and rub it on my finger, just like this, kinda all over the place, right, just like that, all right? Now, I wanna polish here, right? This isn't about speed, so I'm gonna keep the Dremel down, I don't know, about 10 or so, all right? And we'll turn it on. Just like that. And I like to use the press here with the Dremel, because I can use two hands, I can manipulate everything. If I'm with the Dremel, I can't really do that, and move the tool at the same time. So, this allows me nice control. Absolutely love my Dremel press. When we get to ARs, boy, am I gonna show you how well this works. Okay, so, all I'm doing is polishing all my pieces, getting all those edges, again, this helps being in the Dremel press, to really get the edges good, because I can use those two hands. Okay, polishing, polishing, nice, nice. I just started doing this trigger bar, and it's already black. In here, like this. I like to use the spearhead, because I can get in those really tough, hard to reach places, around the trigger shoe, in the front and the back. All right. So, let's take a rag, we're gonna wipe it off. So, now, she looks a hell of a lot better, okay? So, this is step one to polish. I'm using the Flitz, okay? I'm getting all the heavy stuff off, right now, with the Flitz, and then I'm gonna use the Mother's metal polish, and I'm gonna make it look like a mirror, okay? But I wanna do all my pieces now, with the Flitz, while I have this bit on, okay? So, again, here's my connector. I'm just rubbing it all over the connector, getting it everywhere, come back in here, put a little more on your bit, okay? So now, let's do the connector. Same thing, easy breezy, again, the spearhead gets us nice and into those grooves, just like that, perfect. Beautiful. Easy breezy. Wipe it off, get all that junk off there. Imagine, people put that in their gun, and then you start firing it, adding all that carbon in there, what a mess. Can't have that trash. First time quality, baby. All right, so that piece is done. And like I said, our ejector was already done for us. So, now we have the rear rail. Now, what I want you to understand about the rear rail, I'm not sure if I covered this, but when the rear rail is sitting in here, okay, so, we're here. The rear rail is sitting in here. We talked about, really quick, we talked about the trigger bar, hitting up against the polymer, but its gonna rub up against the right side of that bar, metal on metal, so we want to pay particular attention to that area, as well, okay? So, let's take this out. You know this drill. All right, put some on the bit, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, all right, paying particular attention to that area over here, all right? The tops, the sides, all right? On the other side, we want all over that, as well. All right. Perfect. The thing that's tricky about this rear rail, is it comes, and it looks shiny, okay? Then you start doing some of this stuff, and you're like, wow, what a difference. What a difference. I mean, don't get me wrong, Polymer80 is miles ahead of Glock when it comes to their parts and stuff, but we can always find ways to improve, right? That's how I look at it. Okay, I typically get the spearhead here in our pinholes, right? Just stick it in there, like that. Get that pinhole nice and smooth. All right. And we're good to go. All right, we're gonna wipe this piece off. All right, now the front locking block. All right, major area where our slide goes back and forth, so, same thing, I'm just gonna do the top of this, okay? Put it here and here. Turn it on. I'm just gonna work this like this. Beautiful. And you can see the difference right away. A lot of times, well, just oil it. Yeah, we should lube it, right? We should, and we will, but isn't lubing a slick surface already, much better? All right? You're just ensuring all these little minor hiccups that could occur never happen to us. All right, good to go. Don't need much on that one. Easy breezy. That is like butter right now, that is just so, so perfect, all right? And so, that's what the Flitz, the Flitz is a heavier type polish. And now, I'm gonna move to a smoother type polish, which is the Mother's, so let me grab that. All right, so now, we got our Mother's shine. Beautiful, good stuff, right? We do the same thing, I'm just gonna put it on my cardboard, and then take it from here, and work it. So, we're just gonna repeat the process that we just did, but with the Mother's polish, okay? Contact area, right there. Contact area, right there. Same thing on this side. This whole area here is a contact area. Boom, boom. You still wanna get the top, okay? Also catches the side. Just run along the side, like this, okay? Again, just making this area slick, nothing else. All we wanna do. And by the way, if you're crazy like me, you're like, as one person said in a post, anal, that's all right, man, I love you, freedom protector, I hear you. I actually do this shit every time I clean my gun. Every time I clean my gun, I take it completely apart, and I do this process. But hey, that's just me. All right. So, let's take a look at that first time quality, baby. I mean, mirror finish. Absolutely beautiful. All right, let's go ahead and bang some of this stuff out now. So, we have the frame. We talked about these raised protrusions right here, right? That come along. We wanna take away any type of rough edging that happens on these protrusions, because this a high impact point, okay? So, I have my little drill master. What we're gonna do, just gonna turn it on, it's one speed, right, there's no variable speed, there's just one speed. We're gonna come here with a buffer, right? Impregnated buffer, nice, nice. We're just gonna come along here, and we're gonna slick it out. It's not gonna take away any material, this is a completely safe bit. It's just for buffing. So, our trigger bar slides across there, nice, nice. Just working it back and forth, up and down along the edge, on the left and right of those protrusions. Easy breezy. And that's it. That's all she wrote. All right? Oh, man. Yeah, right away, you feel the difference. No doubt, okay? Every single time. So, let's talk about, first is gonna be the mag release button. Disgusting, it doesn't look good. It's a Glock part, right? I mean, I hate to keep beating them up, but it's true, all right? These gen three parts that I talk about in the ejection video are the worst parts Glock's ever made. So, again, I'm gonna take my buffer, and I'm just gonna kinda come along here, and slick that surface out, because I want good action in every single component that is in my gun. So, I work it back and forth. Beautiful, absolutely beautiful. Okay, so that piece is ready to go in. So, first, I'm gonna go ahead, and I'm gonna take our mag release spring, okay? And if we look down into our well here, we see the Y. Let me flip it up like this towards you, okay? So, we see this Y, right here. So, our mag release spring is gonna drop right in there, okay? And so, pretty simple, what we do is we take this spring, we take a pair of needle nose pliers, okay? And we're just gonna seat it right in to that Y, right into that little channel there, okay? So, I'm gonna take it, and I'm just gonna seat it right in, like that, and it drops right in. Now, when it comes to putting it in place, a common error that happens, because we gotta push it down, a common error that happens, I got a punch here, I'm just gonna go on the top of it, is they push it down, and they start to feel some resistance, like I did right there, and then they stop, okay? And the thing is that you've got to fully seat that mag spring, you've got to fully seat it. So, you really wanna take a punch, and you wanna push down, and make sure that it's fully seated. And so, I start to put the mag release button in on the side, and you can see that I hit the spring, right? And so, what I gotta do is get that spring out of the way, so that I can fully seat this mag release button inside. And so, you see a lot of people come from the top, and try to move this mag spring up, like this, so they can sneak it behind. The problem is is that I've got so much tension on there, you have the chance of bending it, and that's a very common occurrence here, and it's because I'm here like this, and I'm pulling, and I'm bending it, right at the point where it flexes. That's no good. So, what I do is is I come up to where I'm at, just like this, okay? And, really simple, I'm gonna go ahead, and I'm gonna take a small screwdriver, and instead of coming from the top, I'm gonna come from the side, right? The other open side, and I'm gonna go ahead, and I'm just gonna push it up, and just sneak the button behind, bang, just like that. Easy breezy, I'm not bending, I'm just sneaking it right behind from the other side. What we gotta do is take this spring, and we gotta put it in the little groove of the button, so that it has tension and works, okay? So, I'm gonna take a bigger screwdriver here, because you want some good leverage to push that over, okay? And I push into place, and bang, it snaps right in, okay? Just like that. So that is a beautifully seated mag release button. Perfect, that's exactly what we want. So, the next thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take my rear rail system, all right? And I'm just gonna plop that into place. Easy breezy, okay? Checking my pinholes, making sure everything lines up, which I know I've already done, cause we've done it a thousand times together in the pin video. And I'm gonna be just fine, just perfect. So, that's there. So, now let's talk about the trigger piece. Our trigger housing, and we have our ejector that we replaced, okay? And we have our connector. So, on your trigger housing, you're gonna have this little slot right here. You're gonna take your connector, bottom piece, and you're gonna place it into that slot. It's easier if you do it upside down like I just did, so that you can place it in there, and then push, from the bottom, don't push from the top, cause you don't wanna bend. And then I just seat it in, nice and flush, making sure that that bottom is flush. The top is gonna have space, that's a good thing, that's what we want, don't try to make this flush against the trigger housing. Okay, so once it's fully seated, you're good to go. Now, before I put this down, I always double check to make sure that that ejector is fully seated, okay? And it is, I don't see any space. So, when it comes to the spring, what I do, because this gets installed, not only improperly, but a lot of times, people are fighting with it, and stretch it out, and bend it, and they don't even realize once they stop firing the gun, and they start diagnosing a whole bunch of other stuff, and the whole time, it's been a bent spring from the wrong type of assembly, okay? So, what I do is I take our trigger housing, and I flip it upside down like this, okay? Because that coil, that hook's gotta go into this hole, into this notch. So, I flip it upside down, I take my trigger spring, with the coil facing up, all right? And then, so what I do is I just come in here like this, and I sneak it in. See how easy that was? There was no pulling, no stretching, no nothing, okay? Now, the other thing here is people take it, cause it's just gonna flip the other way, we're gonna put the trigger bar on first, but they yank it. You don't wanna stretch that out, right? You wanna keep that nice and tight like it is. But the other thing is that, you wanna keep it dead center of this hole, and the little notch, where it belongs, okay? And we'll look at that, and inspect it, before we put it in. Now, we need to do the trigger bar. So now, what I'm gonna do, is put this side of the spring on to the trigger bar, okay? And so, when we do this, it's best if you flip your trigger housing upside down, like so. You take your cruciform, because it's gonna sit like this, folks, right? You take your cruciform, and you come in from the side, cause it's really deep to get that hook in here, and it's also beveled, all right? And so, it's easier to just come in from the side, like so, bang, just like that, okay? And now, it's on. Now, we need to put the trigger shoe, and the bar, on this side. And what, a lot of times, people do, is they take this, and they just pull it over, stretching the spring, and really twisting it. When you move this spring over, all you do is you grab it from the base, like this, and you gently just, I'm just holding the spring, but I'm moving the shoe, and you're gonna see, it just comes over nice and easy. Okay, no stretching that spring. No pulling that spring. None of that trash. Now, we need to put the cruciform on our shelf, and so, what I do, is I come out towards me, I'm twisting towards me, and coming down, and I'm gonna lock right into place like that, beautiful. Now, one of the things that you wanna do, when you're looking at this spring here, is making sure that there's no binding, nothing twisted up, okay? And this looks good, and this looks good. When I put this in, you wanna make sure that this stays together, okay? It's very easy to just pop off like this, and I can't tell you how many times I see people put their trigger in, just like that, and then they have all sorts of trigger issues, because they don't figure it out until after they've assembled and all that other stuff. So, when you put this in, you want it just like that. You wanna hold it in place, and you wanna put it in, okay? Just like so. All right, and then you give it a little test. Just push my shark fin forward, right? Has the trigger ready, hold it, bang. So, now I'm gonna take my rear pin, I'm gonna come in the opposite side here, okay? And look how easy my rear pin goes in. You know why it goes in so easy? Because we did a first time quality job, in the pin video. And so, now, bang, easy, no hammering, no going crazy. I'm gonna put my front locking block in place. I'm gonna come here, and seat it down. Oh, man, that feels good. That feels good. So, now I wanna show you something really quick, because the trigger housing pin and the trigger pin usually kick everybody's butt, okay? So, I'm just gonna put my block here, and I'm gonna kinda show you like this. So, I want you to understand that your slide stop is in here, it's underneath the trigger housing pin, but it's locked in by the trigger pin, all right? So, here's the trigger pin, and it's locked in by these notches, that are on the trigger pin, all right? And what happens is, is that when people are either assembling or disassembling, that's caught on there, and they get frustrated and aggravated, and they start hitting it with a hammer, and soon find out that, I don't really care how hard you hit it with a hammer, it's not coming out. So, I just wanna kinda give you a visual here of what occurs, so, we're just gonna imagine for a second this is inside the gun, okay? And that's my trigger housing pin, and underneath it, I have my slide stop, and the spring is underneath it like that, from the inside, okay? And then from here, my trigger pin is coming through, right? And it's locking on that notch, so I'll just go like that. So, this is how these pieces are gonna sit on the inside, okay? So, you just have a visual of what we're gonna do. See how it gets stuck? All right, I'm gonna show you some tricks around that, but the reality is, is that we're not gonna use a hammer, and get frustrated, and start banging that out. So, the first thing I'm gonna do, oh, and again, this is different from how I would do a Glock, is I'm gonna flip this over, and I'm actually gonna stop the trigger pin first, okay? So, I have the trigger pin there. Now, look, again, 100% holes, makes this job a whole lots easier, okay? All I'm gonna do is just give it one simple swipe, one little hit, with my hammer, okay? Just enough, and it's gonna go in perfect, cause again, the holes are perfect, it's gonna come in just enough, to lock into my locking block, and that's all I wanna do, okay, so, bang. Just like that, easy breezy, okay? And it went in nice and smooth, no problems, no hiccups. So, the trigger's in, what I'm gonna do is flip this upside down like so, and take my trigger housing pin, okay? Now, we always assemble Glocks from right to left with the pins, but this is a Polymer80, and I do it a little different, okay? And so, I'm gonna come here, and I'm gonna put the trigger housing pin in place from the left side. Now, because I did those pins, and again, I know you're probably tired of me preaching to the choir about pins, but pins are everything, because it's the first thing that we do in the build, but it's the last thing that happens in assembly, and if you didn't do it correct from the beginning, you're gonna run into so many problems here. Now, you saw me put one pin in with absolutely no problem. I got the trigger housing pin started with no problems. I'm sorry, the trigger pin started with no problems. I now have the trigger housing pin in place. I'm gonna give this just one hit, and it's gonna go in 90% of the way, you know why? Because everything's lined up and true, okay? So, we just take our hammer, bang, right? There we go, now I can just give it some little taps, and it goes in place, no problem, first time quality. Take a little punch to seat it just right, perfect. We have our trigger pin now, ready to go in, and meet and marry up with our slide stop. So, I'm gonna go ahead and take the slide stop, and I'm gonna put it underneath that trigger pin, just like that, okay? And put it in place. See that? The spring is underneath the trigger housing pin, and it's in place. I'm gonna look down the hole here, and make sure that we are lined up 100%. And we are. We're good, right there. So very carefully, I'm just gonna turn this over. Put it here. And guess what, we're just gonna put it right into place, and again, no problems here, because everything is true and correct. Bang, done. You've never seen a trigger pin done that easy. You know why? Because of first time quality. All right, so now, the front locking block pin is the last one that I'm gonna do, and I'm gonna put that here, okay? And again, gets me kinda far and in and down, all right? And then I will just use a punch to seat it, nice and flush. Perfect. Okay? Last piece is gonna be our takedown lever, and we've already talked about this. I promise you I am not gonna beat up Glock, however, the spring that you get, it's got, at the very end here, a little lip that bevels down. You can see exactly where it starts to bend, right? It comes in, bang, and flares out, right? So, I'm gonna take the fret cutter, the small one that I have, and I'm gonna put it right where that bend is. Bang, just like so, okay? I'm gonna make sure it's nice and even, and then, once I'm even, snip-aroo, perfect, okay? Now, it's just a nice, deep, flush cut. I mean, that's just this little, little piece that we took off, just that, that's it, okay? So now, that's done. We'll take our spring here, and we'll face it to you, so you can see, and I'm gonna take that spot where I just cut nice and flush, and I'm gonna drop it into the hole, just like that, okay? I'm gonna push down. So now, this should be nice and tight and good, and flush, along with the two sides of our channel, right? And it's pretty good. So, here, this is in place. I'm gonna take the stamped piece, where it says 301, and it's got the open cut, and that has to face towards the rear, so I'm gonna flip this around, and I want the front flat face, facing me, okay? So, I'm just gonna start it like this, okay? And what I have to do is I have to push this spring down, okay? So I'm gonna take a punch, and I'm gonna just push it down, like that, I pushed a spring down, and now I can sneak my takedown lever right over it, and it locks into place, just like that, okay? You're good to go, my friends. This is 100% complete build, first time quality, you're gonna put the slide on it, and you're gonna be rock and rolling, baby. The stuff you can only find on the MGB channel, quality. And there she is, beautiful, first time quality, she's in her Sunday's best, and she's ready to meet that man of steel, baby. Listen, I just want to take this opportunity to thank you, freedom protectors. The last three weeks, 400 new subscribers, and that's because you're putting out that message of quality, and I truly appreciate that. If you haven't already done so, head on over to Facebook, and like the Marine Gun Builder Facebook page, and while you're there, join Marine Gun Builder's exclusive group, Guns, Ammo, Hunting, and Preparedness. That's it for today, my friends. Semper Fi, do or die.

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