Kidon Pistol Conversion Kit - Pro Build

Updated: Sep 5, 2019


Full Video Transcript:

- Welcome back freedom protectors. Hey today on the Marine Gun Building channel, we're talking about the Kidon, right, the Kidon, if you're from New England like me, the Kidon. But it's a pistol conversion kit. And listen, pistol conversion kits have been out now for a couple a years and there's lots of information out there. So what I'm gonna show you today is exactly how to assemble it, how to get that first time quality, locked and load ready to go, show you all of the adjustments on it. But first we need to understand why we would even want a pistol conversion kit. What is the purpose of it? And you know again, they've been out there a couple a years, lots of information on them out there, but the big thing that people talk about is the ability to have that stability and to be more accurate at distance. Hey listen, all this is true but we still fundamentally need to ask the question, "Well, why is that important?" Which is for the most part what they don't cover. So, in the world of combat operations or tactical situations distance and time are tethered together. The more distance I have with a threat the more time that I have. As I close that distance, the less time I have to react. And so we always want it to be our preference to be able to engage and neutralize a threat at distance because it gives me more time. More time for things like cover or concealment or to set up a defensive position in order to engage that threat and neutralize it. So time and distance are forever tethered together. It's not just hey I can be more accurate at distance. While that's true, I also need to understand that time there gives me the ability to set up that position, engage that target, and neutralize it. The other thing is, is that I always look at everything that I do from a situational awareness and a tactical perspective. I'm just an old salty marine that's just me. Okay, but when I buy a weapon or I buy anything to do for my loadout, it's gotta serve a purpose. And so when we're talking about a pistol conversion kit we need to talk about well what purpose does it serve for us? Yes, it allows us to engage at a distance more accurate. But specifically here, one of the greatest things about a pistol conversion kit is number one is I can have two separate weapon platforms based on one gun. So I'm all about options. So for me everything that I do is about giving myself if I'm in that situation, as many options as possible because options equals advantage, okay? And so for here I now have from one gun two separate weapons systems that I can effectively engage and neutralize that threat with. The second piece is that this is very lightweight. It's just under three pounds, that's what it weighs in as. Fantastic. Something like this I can just throw in my car and go. If I have a full AR9 pistol, you should never leave a gun in the car by the way, how stupid is that? But you know, I can't leave an AR9 pistol in my car and go out about my day, but with this, it's just a piece of plastic, I can throw this in the car and not worry about it if the car should get broken into, but more importantly if I need to, I can back to me car, I got my EDC on me, bang, lock, load, ready to go, and now I'm ready to engage targets at distance. So for me, a pistol conversion kit with that alone is well worth adding to my inventory and my loadout. The other thing to consider is that we live in a square world. So whether you're inside a building or you're inside a home all of our structures on earth happen to be four walls right? And the same is true outside. When we're in an outside environment all of our streets and cities are all set up in plats and blocks and all this other thing which means what realistically? Which means that there's a high statistical probability that you're gonna be dealing with corners whether you're inside or outside, corners become something that are just part of our every day environment. And so if I'm going to engage with a threat, again, high statistical probability that there are gonna be corners involved. Well, you know, with a full AR system you got 16 inch barrel, I gotta expose myself more around these corners. Something like this, very small, I can not give a whole lot of exposure as I'm peeking around those corners and engaging with those targets. So again, big reason why some of this is in my tactical loadout is because I want that advantage anytime I can. I want all of those options available to me. And while we're talking about options, you know this obviously is the Kidon, it's fairly new to our market, the RONI has been out awhile but with the RONI I'm very limited option wise 'cause the RONI fits a specific platform where this Kidon system fits over 100 different types of platforms, I'm gonna go over them all with you about how we use the adapter and how to change adapters to fit different platforms. But again, I now have options. And so to me that's a big advantage with this system over the RONI. Now, another thing about pistol conversion kits that are very, very important to understand is that there's no red tape involved. I don't have any bureaucracy, no FFL, none of that stuff. It's just a piece of plastic, that's all it is. I don't have to worry about going through that route of all that paperwork and all that other nonsense. And so just another advantage for you when you're thinking about what kind of platform you come in. But when it comes to this system specifically, this Kidon, listen, probably the biggest disadvantage that it's had is been cost, right? When it first come out has a 500 plus price tag. You know, I'll be honest with you, MarineGunBuilder is not interested in that at $500 plus. I mean it's just too expensive. So that was a big con with this platform system. But now they're 40% reduction in price and you're into the $300 price range in there, you know what, now it becomes really an option to consider for your tactical loadout. And it is for me and that's why I have it because I want as many options as possible. So, that's kind of a little bit of background about the pistol conversion kits. I look at everything from a threat assessment, threat neutralization, where do I need things? How many options do I have and should I be in this situation? I wanna put myself at the best advantage to neutralize that target. Having the ability to do something close up, which is great, and having the ability to do something at distance and create that time to neutralize, I put them both together under one platform. For me it's a no brainer. So today what I'm gonna do though is I'm gonna go through the entire weapon system, the entire platform. I'm gonna show you how to assemble it, I'm gonna show you how to adjust it, I'm gonna give you kind of some neat tricks and things that I use when I put this together. I'm also gonna do things like put on some sights, I'll put on an optic, show you some of that too so that you can build a complete platform. It'll be ready to go. You can throw it in your bug out bag, throw it in your car. Everything that you need to know in order to set this platform up for success, get you locked and load, ready to go. All right, so let's look at what comes in the box in this system. So we have a front module system here. We have the rear module system. We've got some instructions and let's face it, you're watching this video because the instructions don't cover what I'm covering. You have a fancy IMI defense Kidon sling here. You've got this fantastic multi-tool which I really like. Helps us do all of our fine adjusting. And it comes with a QD sling attachment. So we don't need the instructions, we don't need the sling for now. I'm gonna talk about that later on. We'll put the QD sling attachment aside. So let's kinda look at these pieces and kinda get a feel for the system overall before we start assembling all right? So let's take a look at this front module system and we'll take a kind of a quick gander at how it works. So the first thing is like I said earlier, it's really lightweight, but yet very, very durable. It's really durable. Probably my favorite piece about this front module system is actually this angled fore grip, I actually love it. It's very ergonomical. It's really my hand just fits in there nice and good. But it's got this front stop which I really like 'cause when firing it, it provides that extra grip right there, there's no movement at all. Comes with a Picatinny rail system. It's a quad system so you can hook up all your different sights, your lights, everything that you wanna run, you can run on there. Also has a charging handle there and this is ambidextrous so it can go on either side, I'll show you how to do that as well. But I like the fact that it's really out there. It has many different options of how I can rack my slide. And why this system is different is with the other pistol conversion kits, they attach by locking in the slide which is why we need to buy a different pistol conversion kit every time we use a different gun in it because every gun's slide is different. And that is true by the way too with the calibers. So even when you are using another pistol conversion kit and you're using the same manufacturer and the same caliber but just a different slide, you need a whole new conversion kit just for that. And that's kind of a pain in the neck. And so what they did was they said, "Hey listen, we're gonna capture the frame "via these two guides right here." And so what this does if we look at this PF940C, is it's gonna capture it right in here. So we're just gonna line up our rail directly into the guide and it's gonna sit there nice and perfect. So I just take the gun, I come up, I line it up with that, just like that. And then on this side, it's got this tension lever and when I close it, it locks the gun into place really good. And on this side we have an adjustment to tighten down or loosen depending on the weapon that we have in there to lock it in nice and tight. And I'll go over that with you when we talk about adjusting at the end. All right to take it out pretty simple, we just flip the tension lever down and out we go. All right, so it's a fun model system. It's really cool, like it. Very, very durable and strong. What we're gonna work on mostly today is the rear module piece. So we gotta put a buffer tube on and our brace and this is the adapter. So this is what we would change out if we're gonna change to a different gun. And so this is a K18 adapter which is specifically for the Polymer 80. I'm gonna show you how to change adapters. I'm gonna do a K1 which is for the Glock. And so basically what's gonna happen is this is gonna be at the rear and the adapter fits right into your beavertail like that. See how it has that perfect fit just like that into the beavertail. And it's spring loaded right. So this is exactly what's gonna happen while we're in there. Now we can also adjust all of these different springs as well, spring tension, so I'll go over that with you when we get to adjusting it. But that's how that's gonna lock into place. These two pieces marry up back here with this pin and these buttons, one on either side. Now with this pin, there's a lot I like about this system, but you all know MarineGunBuilder hates MIM and guess what? Well, they used MIM here when they made this pin so you can see all the little burring and all that nastiness that goes on because they made the pin and they cut the channel out for it to go in and out and then oiled the hell out of it thinking that oil and plastic play nice, which we know it does not. So, I really don't like this pin, it's one of the things I don't like about the system because it's a MIM part, it's flimsy, it doesn't slide good, you know. But that's neither here nor there. The other thing while we're talking about cons for a moment that I don't like is that it is a two-piece system. I don't like that. I don't wanna be in a situation where I have to neutralize a threat and I'm gonna go put the gun into the system and it's like hey, okay, I take this out, put that down, take this and put this in, take this and put, it's too much fumbling around for me in the moment of truth when time is of the essence. And so those are probably the only two things I don't like and I'll actually say this, IMI if you're watching this video, which I'm sure you will because there's very few videos out here on your system, I think that when you engineer a gen two, I would make an extension here where these two are together and this can slide out and I can slide the gun in and then marry up with it. Now it doesn't matter if it extends out and down or up or whatever, but to make these two pieces marry up and not come apart would be fantastic. I wouldn't have to fumble around with two different pieces. However, workaround is that we cut a sling on either side and we can keep 'em that way. So for now that's what we'll do. So this is basically how this kinda works and comes together. These two buttons are gonna come in, the gun's gonna get locked there, the pin is out. All right, gun's locked in there and then this closes and locks down while the gun's inside. MIM nonsense right? All right, so now it's out, we push our two buttons together and these two pieces will come apart. So that's how that works. We can put the front piece aside for a moment. Let's talk about setting this up. So the first thing is is that it comes with this plug on the back and this plug is extremely tight on there. It's not hand tight, it's extremely tight. You're gonna need a tool to take it off. I actually wanna use this because I noticed that it has this plug also has a QD mount on it. So I actually have an idea, a different project that I'm working on where I wanna use this plug 'cause the reality is, is that you won't need it after you take it off unless you have something else like me that you wanna use it for. So I don't wanna mar all this up with tools and this, that, and the other. All right, so now I have her all taped up, she's ready to go, she's protected. All right, before I put her in the vice though and try to take it off, what we wanna do is take out this little pin here, this retention pin we wanna back that out. Now this is a part that a lot a people get wrong and they end up stripping the screw. So you gotta be really, really careful here okay? But I just wanna back it out because it's got my plug locked in and if you try to take this off with that pin in, you're gonna break the pin. Get it to a good seat right there and take your time with this, take your time 'cause again, not easily replaceable. All right, and then I can start to undo it, there it goes. Taking my time here, I'm not rushing this piece 'cause again, this pin is sensitive. So I'm just backing it out that way when I go to take it off I believe that these plugs are Loctited on so again, it's still gonna be difficult for me to get it off. But I'll show you what I do. I do a little oil there and crank if off. So there, all right, so now see it's backed out. Just wanna give it a couple more turns to make sure I'm fully out here. And I'm fully down. Good, all right, so you wanna do that and then we'll go ahead and put it in the vice okay? All right, so now I have it in the vice. I taped the ring, I taped the inside and I sprayed it really quick with WD-40. So, this might seem overkill but it's because I wanna save this piece so I'm taking precautions here not to mar it too much. But the reality is, is that this is on extremely tight, it's really the toughest part of this whole build out actually believe it or not. But, if you don't need to save this piece, just get medieval on it okay? So I'm gonna do is come around with my Channellocks, I'm gonna grab onto it. I'm gonna tighten first and then once you're on good, just push down. This is good so you don't limp wrist it right? There we go. Okay that's it. Good. All right. And let's see. All right, so we'll clean that up but that's off. All right, so now we're ready to assemble the rear module. We have the rear module here, we have a KAK Industries buffer tube. We have a castle nut and the Shockwave brace. So the first thing that we need to do is take our KAK Industries buffer tube and our castle nut and you'll notice on your castle nut that you have indentations. Big on one side, small on the other. See these here? All right, what we wanna do is we wanna make sure that the big notches are facing the rear. So I'm gonna take the side with the big notches and I'm just gonna screw it onto our buffer tube. Now when we do this typically we would have some AeroShell and stuff in here, but they have greased the hell out of this so it's really not gonna be necessary. It would be overkill anyway. So I'm just gonna screw this on just like so, get it in there. And then the next thing I wanna do is if you look on your buffer tube, you will have a channel coming down to the bottom of it. And see I know I'm on the bottom here because that's how my brace is going to lock in right in there using this into one of those holes. But we'll get there in a second. When I'm on the bottom I can see that I have this channel right here. Well on your rear module, okay this is facing up, you have that same channel in there. Remember we had that detent pin that was in there that we backed out in order to get the butt plug off. Well, we wanna be able to align our channel of our rear module and the channel of our buffer tube together. So all I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take the buffer tube and I'm gonna line it up with the channel on the rear module just like that. And once you have them together and lined up you go ahead and just spin this on, turn it all the way till it won't go anymore, tighten that bad boy down. So there I am, I'm hand tight now. But we can see that here's the channel of the rear module's right there and the channel for the buffer tube is off to the right. So, what I gotta do is I gotta pull it back to the left and align that and have it nice and centered perfectly just like that. So now I have perfect alignment from the buffer tube into my rear module. Now with that done, we wanna take that detent pin that we backed out earlier and we wanna tighten that down so it sits within the middle of that channel and locks in between the threads locking our buffer tube in. And so again, I'm just gonna take the small Allen wrench and I know I've already kind of beat the horse to death about how sensitive this pin is, but I'm gonna say it again, you really just gotta be careful and make sure it's fully seated before you start turning just like that. You saw it took a little second there for me to get it just right. And so now that it's fully seated, I just simply go ahead and tighten this down. Now with this, you don't wanna manhandle this okay? We know you're tough, but we don't wanna manhandle it, we just want it to sit nice and tight all the way down and inside that channel lock and those threads. So don't over tighten it. You tighten it just hand tight and maybe just a quarter more turn after that. And there we go. So that's that. Next is we need to take this castle nut now that we put on and we need to tighten it up against our rear module. So, nice and tight up against there. Just like so. All right, and then we gotta get our armorer's wrench and we've gotta go ahead and give it a couple turns, get it nice and tight in there. Now, I just point something out here about the KAK Industries buffer tube with their castle nut, a standard armorer's wrench right, so like here's the Magpul tool, this doesn't work on this buffer tube. It's not gonna work with that castle nut. So, this is just an Amazon cheapy that I've had a Tapco that I've had for many, many years. I'll have the tools in the description as always, but it's real cheap and I gotta be honest with you, I'm surprised it's lasted as long and it's been as durable as it's been with all the building that I do with it. So, what you wanna do is you wanna take your armorer's wrench and you wanna line up into your grooves here with the armorer's wrench. So right into there on either side, sits nice and tight in there just like so. So again my handy, dandy block that you see in all my videos that I love so much. And I have my module here, I'm gonna put it on my block, I'm gonna stand up and I'm gonna tighten that bad boy down. Okay, so that's tight. You got a vice, you can use a vice. Whatever you got, all right? So now let's do the stabilizing brace. Underneath here we have many indentations of where we want our stabilizing brace to sit so you'll go ahead and have to measure what's right for you. I know what's right for me because I have a ton of these. But we're basically just gonna put it into the dimples here. I look at this as small, medium, and large, it's how I kinda do it. So I'm gonna be using the large one here to go ahead and tighten down the brace onto the buffer tube. Nice and tight, I'm gonna give it just one more turn half way. Good, all right. So now our brace is in place, beautiful right? Look at that rear module system, it's looking really nice now. So, that piece is done. So, one other thing real quick. A lot of you will probably will want to run some type of folding stock adapter. There's no need to spend $200 on a Law Tactical for this application, it's only a pistol conversion kit. So these all metal ones that they sell on eBay are fairly inexpensive and they work great for this application. So I don't want you to spend all that money on a full blown Law Tactical when you don't need to, okay? But it's the same method. It screws in one side, screws in the other, locks in with that detent pin and you're good to go. You have a folding stock adapter. So that's our rear module. Now, we need to do some of our final adjustments and getting ready to put our gun in place. But first, what we're gonna do is to set up our front module with sights. All right, so now we have our front module system, we got two Magpul MBUS flip up sights, perfect right. These are so easy to work with, so easy to install. So we're gonna put these on right now. We've got a rear and we have a front. They work on a single flathead screwdriver. So I just take it and I back this out just like so. And the screw just comes right out. And then we'll just kinda put it in place on a Picatinny rail. So if we look at the rail system, look at your MBUS sight, it just lines right up just like that, nice and easy. You decide where on the rail you wanna put it for your application. I'm gonna put it right here for now. And I'm gonna take the screw and put it back in. It goes in from right to left so gonna spin it around and we're gonna place it right in there like that. It's gonna sink right through, lock on in between the two rail systems here, it's nice and locked in and I'm just gonna go ahead and tighten it down now. So make sure it's squared up and shored away, looks good. And tighten that down okay? Good. So now she's in, I just simply press either side. Has the levers there on either side. I press 'em and bam, in business ready to acquire a target and take out a combatant. Oh man I just had a flashback. All right, so same thing for the front side here. You're just gonna go ahead and take your screwdriver, loosen up that screw on the front post. Take it out. Push it all the way down and forward and I like my front posts as forward as possible so I'm gonna stop right there. So the rear goes in right from left. The front goes in left to right. So, just remember that. Line it up. Seat it down between the rail system right there. And then we're just gonna tighten that down. Easy breezy. Beautiful, nice. Love it. So, our sights are in place ready to acquire our target. So let's talk about putting on an optic. So now I'm gonna grab this Vortex Spitfire. All right so now let's put on our optic here. I'm just gonna use a Vortex Spitfire, windage, elevation, illumination. I like that the battery compartment is on the top, it's one of my favorite things about optic actually. We go ahead and you just place it onto the rail like so. Wherever you want it, I'm gonna put it right here for now and for demonstration purposes because I always adjust these things when I'm foresighting them in to make sure I'm absolutely where I wanna be. But I'm just gonna tighten the nut here and it's gonna lock on to my rail system here. So, just like that. It's on, it's nice and tight, not gonna seat it permanently 'cause like I said I'm probably going to adjust it. But again, nice and easy, it has it's own riser so hey, that's perfect. Flip up sights and I'm good to go. So, that's done, she's starting to look a little mean here. So now let's talk about adjusting this platform. I'm gonna go from the front and then all the way to the back and then we'll change the adapter and then we'll do our final look at it, okay? What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take the tool that they provided and I am going to start to back this first pin out. Once I got the first pin out and started I'm gonna do the same thing with the rear one. I'm gonna seat that tool in and I'm gonna start to back that one out. You don't need to take 'em out just want them loose enough that I can start to move this and shape it into position for the weapon that we're gonna put in okay? This actually comes right off though. So, if you were in a position where you wanted to run a cam or even a barrel you could actually just take this right off. And so now it just kinda slides out and forward like this. Nice and easy, just like that. And so now what I wanna do is put the gun in, line it up to those rails, seat it in. Go ahead and just pull it out or adjust it to wherever you need to. I'm gonna come, I don't know, right about there. I don't want it all the way out, you don't want it all the way in, you want it enough just to push the energy forward, push that flash forward and get that energy forward. So that's good. So now I'm gonna tighten this down, this is using, you know how we did small, medium, large on this tool? Small, medium, large. This is the small. So I'm gonna tighten the rear first and then the front. All right, next we're going to tighten where we have our pistol in place. So remember we have this tension lever, we pull this down, take it out. So this is the other side of that tension lever. You can see that it's kinda these two pieces, this is how this mechanism works. And we can tighten it, make it closer like this or we can widen it depending on the pistol that you have going in there. Push your tension lever up so it's locked in place. Now here, I have just a little play, a little too much for me so I'm gonna go ahead and just give this a quarter turn. Now you don't wanna go crazy here with this because if you lock it too tight, you're not gonna be able to unlock the tension lever and you're gonna have to re-back this out. It's gonna just sit in there snug I guess would be the key word for this. So we have small, medium, and large. I'm using the medium. So perfect, just like that. Now that is solid, that's solid. This is actually the weapon system we want, right? Forget the ATF, that's what we want right there, we'd love this weapon system. All right, so now let's talk about the charging handle. We did our muzzle flash, we did our seating of our tension lever for our pistol to sit in there nice, and now we wanna help out our brothers and sisters who are left handed. We love them too. And so we need to move this charging handle from one side to the other. And so just a kind of a quick look, let me flip it upside down. It works on a spring system so looking in here at the internals, it's got this spring. So as I rock it back it's moving on this spring. And it's got two Allen wrenches screws that are in there and what's happening is that you have the tracks here on either side and underneath, if you can see here, there is a shoe that the charging handle and the two screws go into that shoe. So basically what we gotta do is we gotta back these out. We gotta pull this back and hold and like this I'll hold it with my thumb and we wanna take that shoe out of the system and then place it on the other side and put our charging handle down okay? That's the kind of basically what we were gonna do. All right come in here, take this off, I take the screws right out to expose the shoe. So this is off now right? There's the two screws, that's the shoe that it sits in and that's the piece that we have to get out. And so I have my thumb just holding down that spring, holding it from locking forward. But what I wanna do is I'm gonna come in here all the way. So now I have my finger holding it, I don't know if we can see it, like this and I'm pulling it all the way back. I'm pulling it all the way back so I can expose this hood right here. See the hole right there? There's a lot of tension on my finger right now. I'm just gonna take a punch and I'm gonna hold it in position. So now it's held for me and now I can work and I don't have to worry about springs and all that other stuff. So with that done I'm just gonna take their tool and I'm gonna slide the shoe forward and out. Just like that and she falls out. I'm gonna flip it over to the other side. With the shoe it can be kind of tough to get it in there and on so one of the things that you can do is you can just start these screws again onto your charging handle and then put it in. So that's what we're gonna do. I'm gonna hold it just like this, just gonna give it like a turn and a half each screw just so that it bites down onto the shoe. Because if it's too tight it won't fit over the teeth. Good, then I'll come up and get my shoe, slide it into the teeth from the front, and there we go, now she's on. So now I need to pull this out and so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take the tool here and I'm gonna push back so the tension is off and we can start to let it forward a little bit. And what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna put the punch in the next hole, like this, so it doesn't go all the way home and the reason I'm doing that is because I need to adjust this on the track system of where I want it. Now I kinda wanna be right in here, I already know that because I've been exploring with it and playing with it. But you know, you do the same thing, you figure out exactly what works for you, what ratchets slide the best. And so there we are. All set for our left-handed brothers and sisters you are good to go. But guess what I gotta do? I gotta put it back on the other side because I'm right-handed shoot. All right, so now our charging handle is back on the other side. It's good to go. And now what we wanna do is we wanna check to make sure that we're getting a good rack on that slide so it can strip the next round for us or eject the casing. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take the PF940C, I'm gonna stick it in, I'm gonna lock down our tension lever which we've already adjusted and that's good to go. All right, and then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna come here and I'm gonna look down now and I'm gonna pull that slide back. And yep, looks like we got really good clearance. Just to make sure though, we're gonna go ahead and I'm gonna use some dummy gunsmithing rounds that I sue because you know the number one rule to gunsmithing is no ammunition anywhere allowed in your work area. So, what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna put this in and we're gonna take a test. We wanna test in a controlled environment before we get out to the range and we start using live rounds. And let's test our ejection and our feed. So here we're on the feed ramp, I'm not hitting the ejector, looks good, yep, locked and load, ready to go. So ejection, good, ejection, good, ejection, good, ejection, ooh that was a good one, ooh, ooh. You know what that is my friends? That's that 47021 ejector we've been talking about. So that one was good. And good, and we're locked, and it's locked back perfectly just like it should be. So we are now good to go my friends. So I'm gonna drop that magazine out. Good to go. Take the tension lever off, push it down and then I can take the weapon out. All right, so, very happy with that result. Our charging handle is now dialed in. Our tension lever is dialed in and our muzzle flash is dialed in. So those are all set. Now we're gonna talk about putting it together in the back but I'm gonna show you the adapter real quick and we're gonna change it over to a G19 Gen5 MOS. So now let's change the adapter. The one I have on here as we talked about earlier is the K18 which is for the Polymer 80 beavertail. So the Polymer 80 has a nice beavertail, sits into that K18. Glock doesn't have that beavertail because Glock doesn't listen to it's customers even though we've been screaming about it for years, but Polymer 80 does. But that's another whole conversation right for the ejection video which I talk about a lot in that. But in any event, in this case, this is the K1 adapter. The K1 adapter fits the Glock. So we're gonna put the Glock 19 Gen5 MOS system in here and so we need to remove this K18 adapter and replace it with a K1. So the tool that Kidon gives you, we've been using for adjusting, but it doesn't do us any good any time we're doing any sort of building, right? So, when we did this detent screw down here earlier we had to go to metric Allen wrenches. Same thing here, this is not gonna fit into the adapter to unscrews it, take it out, and put the other adapter in. So basically we just get our Allen wrench here and we're gonna take this screw completely out. So nice and gentle again, these screws are extremely sensitive, we wanna take our time. We wanna make sure that you've got the right Allen wrench in there and that it's seated all the way down. And there she is, that's it. So just put that aside for a second. Now pulling this off is always a fun and an event because on the right-hand side they put a little sticky material like some glue or something on there to keep this on. Not sure why they do that, but they do. But just use some muscle and pull it off. And it comes off. Then we're gonna take our K1 adapter and you can see looking into it, it's got the female end of it, this is the male end of it, it's gonna fit in perfectly the male into the female right? Such is life. And so we go ahead, oop, I had it upside down, we go ahead and put it in here and we're gonna line up that hole to this hole here and it'll actually just click for you kinda into spot right there, just like that. So now it's ready to go. We're ready to put that screw back in so I'm going to put it onto the Allen wrench first, seat it, there we go, and then you know whenever you screw into plastic, metal into plastic, you always go back a turn first and then forward. You know when you put your kids toys together at Christmas when you do that and you have a Phillips head screw or something like that into the plastic, just turn it backwards a half turn, you'll feel it click and then your threads are lined up and you can screw it all the way in. So hand tighten, perfect. And that's done. So now this is all set. We're gonna have one final adjustment back here in this rear screw that is going to lock the rear of the gun into place and once we have it in, we've already adjusted all the front, but once we have this together we're just gonna adjust this rear to fit nice and tight 'cause I have it adjusted now for the Polymer 80 and we just switched it to the Glock 19 Gen5. So, we're really ready to rock except we need to do one little thing. Because I am meticulous we need to fix this pin. So here is this pin, this MIM pin, M-I-M, metal injection molding, it's another term for cost-saving junk, not gonna get into right now, but the reality is, is that this is no good. This is no good at all. You got all little metal shards in there. Whole bunch a mess going on in there and to prevent really good action for us to lock the gun into place. So we're just gonna clean that up real quick. We're gonna take a few minutes. I'm gonna show you how to do that okay? As you know from all my previous videos whenever we work with plastic or polymer we're always wet sanding. I always keep sandpaper in the water ready to go for me because I just do so much of this stuff. The other thing we're gonna use is, let's see here, we're gonna use our little micro here. What else we got? Maybe use a brush, couple bits, here, here. I have a cardboard out. And yeah maybe we'll go all out today okay? All right, so, we've got a lot a little burring in here that we need to clean up, we need to take care of that. I'm actually gonna change this to an aluminum pin. But you don't have to do that. You can just clean this up and do this little method that I'm gonna do here. I got some little polishers and I have a buffer. So first thing I'm gonna do is just dip the brush, this is just a standard cleaning brush and I'm gonna get out any of those loose burrs and already they're popping out. Already I see them coming out. They're sparkling everywhere. We don't wanna take any material here because MIM is not only sensitive, but the reality is, is that this is lined up to fit into this channel perfectly. So if we take away material then we compromise the integrity of it. So that's not our goal here. Our goal is to just get rid of all this burring and make it smooth, there we go. All right, so we're gonna do that. I'm gonna, oh, hit the camera. I'm gonna come in this way from the inside and take a look at what we've got going on here. All right, so couple quick passes on the inside. All right, just wanna kinda clean that area up as much as possible, still not sure why they're using so much grease on plastic and MIM but there we go. All right, so the first thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take that little Allen key that we had, I'm gonna take some wet 600. I have 600 in here, I have 1500. So obviously really, really fine sandpaper, just enough to scrape away and clean up any of the burring that's in that little channel here. So I'm just gonna wrap it up in here like so. The top pointing up so I can hold onto it and I'm gonna come in and just clean it up a little bit right into that channel. Nice and light. See I'm not really putting any pressure. I just wanna pick up all of that burring, that's all I wanna do here. You don't wanna take any material away, I just want the burring gone and I want it smooth. It is MIM, it's not metal. So MIM, metal injection molding, is when they take metal flakes and they mix it with a feedstock and so what we're seeing in the burring here is all the metal flakes separating from the feedstock that they used. I.e. quality control. All right, so, that's really all we need to do there. I'm gonna take the 1500 now. Same thing, gonna put it in the Allen key. Put the 1500 in the Allen wrench and same thing. Just gonna come in here. That's good. All that burring is gone, all that metal burring is now gone, good. So let's just smooth it out real quick and we'll be good to go. Here is the pin hole right here, let's see, if we got anything in there. Nope, good, all right. So now we can put that aside for a second. All I'm gonna do really quick is just run a little polishing right down in there. So, Flitz is great because it's for metal and plastic. So what is MIM? Metal and pretty much plastic, so this works great to clean this up. So I'm just gonna take a little bit of Flitz right here. Just a little bit like that. I have two bits out here. One I'm gonna use to get it like this and put it in. Come in, get in here. Underneath it. Look it's nice and shiny now too. I'm gonna pull it back out. See all that grease and whatever nonsense they got in there? I don't want any of that in there, so I'm just gonna turn this off for a second. What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take a punch and a rag and I'm just gonna get in there and I'm gonna start to clean some of that out because again, that grease, is not for plastic, it's not doing us any favors here. It's just creating obstructions that don't need to be there. We polish the plastic we'll have the better results. Put some polish in there, polish in there, and finish that up. Clean it out, it's already shiny. World of difference already. Sometimes it only takes a minute or so, right? Changes the whole outcome on performance. Okay, so there. Now we'll wipe off any polish that was on our pin. Beautiful. Look it, gorgeous. Much, much, much, much, much better. Much better. But, I'm not done. I'm gonna do one little last step. Just gonna take this, pull this off, I'm gonna put our buffer on and then I'm just gonna give it a quick buff. Exactly what we want. Quality stuff. So that's it, just takes 90 seconds and you changed the whole direction of a non-conforming part. Here comes the fun part, final assembly. Take the front module system, take the Glock 19, I'm gonna take the frame, I'm gonna line it up to the rails inside the Kidon, it's locked in place, turn it over and I am going to close the retention lever. So the front piece is in. Then I'm gonna take our rear module system, I'm gonna again line it up to the rails on the front module. I'm gonna come in here. So we want these buttons on either side to lock into place. So we're just gonna give her a slap in the ass and send it home. Just like that. She's now locked into place on both sides. And then we're gonna send the pin home. The pin is now home. All right, and then the last thing that we need to do is go ahead and adjust this rear screw to make sure that we're nice and tight in the rear. Now it feels like it is. But what you wanna do is come in and make sure that this is hand tight. So, what I do is I come in, give it a couple turns. You don't want it too tight. I'm just gonna get it hand tight and then I'm gonna back off 'cause what do we have? We have recoil right? And right there I'm hand tight. So what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna come back half here. Half. All right, so one full turn. One full turn. I'm now ready to go. So let's take our final look and there she is my friend, 50 round drum mag, lock and load, ready to go, ready to blow. Hope you enjoyed today my friends. Semper Fi, do or die.

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