Freedom Wolf 80% Frame update 6Jul21*

Updated: Jul 6

Contribution from bapegg

Freedom Wolf G44 22lr

Great news everyone. With the release of the Lone Wolf Freedom Wolf 80% frame it is now possible to run a G44 22lr slide on an 80% frame without any modifications required.

Here is the finished pistol. The slide is 100% OEM.

For the lower parts I used an OEM G44 trigger bar, OEM G44 trigger housing with the correct 22lr ejector, aftermarket slide stop, OEM Gen 3/4 slide lock and spring. Since the frame uses a Gen 3/4 slide stop, I am using a Serpico Lyte Gen 3 trigger shoe. The Gen 5 trigger shoe will have too much side to side play when used with the Gen 3/4 slide stop lever.

When I built the frame, I did not drill the locking block pin holes since the G44 locking block does not use that pin.


I shot 200+ rounds of CCI Mini Mags without issue today along with about 50-75 rounds of Aquila Super Extra 36Gr HP. I had a few failure to ejects and failure to fires but those were purely do to the ammo. The malfunctions happened mostly with the Aquila ammunition.


I shot all rounds free handed at targets set at 10 yards. Here are the two targets. I am pleased how it functions and shoots especially since I did not use any type of rest and my fibromyalgia was causing my hands to shake a little. I was not shooting super slow or super fast. I did shoot fast enough to get the gun hot though.

Overall I am very pleased how this project turned out. Now if we can only get a good functioning aftermarket slide for the G44

Contribution from bapegg & 1984sonsofliberty

The Lone Wolf Dist. Freedom Wolf 80% frame now available. One thing about it is that it's totally different from polymer 80's. The rails are glued to the frame !

The Kit


Close up of rail system Front Rear

Rails& support are glued to frame

LONE WOLF FREEDOM WOLF 80% LOWER

DIY doesn’t have to be stock. Upgrade your 80% game with the Lone Wolf Arms Freedom Wolf. The Freedom Wolf is not at the stage of manufacturing to meet the ATF definition on a firearm frame. This means that this item can ship straight to your door, with no Federal Firearms License required. Simply follow the instructions provided, and 48 hours later, you will be ready to assemble and shoot your home built Freedom Wolf!

Full instructions. Download latest manual here. Freedom Wolf Manual

FEATURES:

  • Accepts Gen3 or Gen4 G19/23/32/38 slides (via dust cover adapter)

  • Fits in standard Glock® 19 holsters

  • Extended beaver tail designed to disperse recoil impulse

  • Ambidextrous reversable Gen4 style magazine catch

  • Undercut trigger guard for higher grip placement

  • Removed finger grooves for improved grip position


SPECS:

  • Compatible with Glock® Gen3 or Gen4 G19/23/32/38 slides.

  • Weight: 2.6 oz. stripped, 3.2 oz. partially finished, 4.7 oz. complete with locking block and trigger installed

  • Length: 7.00”

  • Height including magwell: 4.77”

  • Width: 1.13” frame, 1.49” magwell


INCLUDED:

  • Freedom Wolf 80% lower

  • Stencil (Jig)

  • Front rail (x2)

  • Rear rail (x2)

  • Flat backstrap

  • Swelled backstrap

  • Magwell

  • Front rail cap (x2)

  • Left rear rail cap

  • Right rear rail cap

  • 3mm drill bit

  • 4mm drill bit

  • Rail Adhesive

The Freedom Wolf only works with a Gen 4 trigger housing.

A Gen 3 trigger housing will not fit.

Gen 3 housing Gen 4/5 housing

Photo showing the difference in the grip between the Freedom Wolf and a Gen 5 frame. Gen 5 on the left, Freedom Wolf on the right.

Contribution from bapegg and P80 Ralph (video)

Freedom Wolf Build

Here is my experiences and reviews of building the Lone Wolf Freedom Wolf 80% frame. The frame definitely has some pros and cons that I will get to in the review portion. Now for the build.


Here is the kit.


I ended up using needle nose pliers to pull the majority of the tabs out and then used a machinist’s triangle scraper, jewelers files, and a hobby knife to finish removing the tab material. The tabs inside the RSA channel are very easy to remove. The tabs inside the locking block area are a bit harder since you don’t have much room to get any tools in there. I din’t even use a Dremel at all for tab removal.


Don’t worry about getting the RSA channel perfect at this time. You will have some more cleanup to do after you glue the rails in place.

Install Jig and prepare for drilling

Here are the instructions for building the frame. You do need to follow them to the letter for a successful build.

https://hydra.lonewolfdist.com/ItemMedia/10000/10000_255153.pdf .

I installed the jig onto the frame and then put it all in a vice. I used my Dremel Workstation and a 5/32” bit for the 4mm holes and a 7/64” bit for the 3mm holes. It is very important that you get everything lined up perfectly with the drill bit since it will not “float” like the P80 jig since everything is in a vice.

First I drilled the 4mm holes before switching drill bits. Drill the first hole and then flip the jig/frame over and drill the second 4mm hole. I then did the same for the 3mm hole.

I only drilled the 3mm trigger housing pin hole since I am using a Gen 5 locking block that does not use the 3rd pin. If you are using a Gen 4 locking block, then go ahead and drill out the 3mm locking block pin holes.

Since I used a 7/64” bit for the 3mm holes, I did go back and hand ream them with a 3mm drill bit.

Just like any 80% frame, test the pin hole alignment and test fit the locking block and trigger housing to make sure everything is FTQ.

Here is where things can get a little tricky and you must be careful to get everything correct. Degrease the frame, rails, and polymer rail covers with rubbing alcohol. DO NOT USE ACETONE! Also use the supplied epoxy only. Follow the instructions for gluing the rails in place (see link above for instructions).


CAUTION! Make sure that each rail is straight, level and properly installed when gluing them in place. It is possible to get them at an angle and then they will be too narrow or too wide.


Next you will need to be very very patient! Now that the rails are glued into the frame you must let it all sit for 48 hours so that the epoxy completely cures.

YOU MUST ALLOW THE EPOXY TO CURE A FULL 48 HOURS BEFORE CONTINUING THE BUILD!

Once the frame has sat for at least 48 hours you can then continue final clean up/polishing of the frame. There will be 8 round tabs from the rail covers that will need to be cleaned up. Four are in the RSA channel and 4 where the trigger housing sits.

Like any frame, I use a dowel rod wrapped in sand paper to finish the channel. I used jewelers files to clean up the trigger housing area.


Now onto assembly. Note that the frame uses Gen 4 parts.


The frame assembles just like an OEM Gen 4 frame. You will use a Gen 4 trigger housing, trigger w/bar, slide stop lever, and slide lock lever. You have a choice to use either a Gen 4 flat slide lock spring or a round Gen 5 slide lock spring. You will have to stick with a Gen 3/4 slide lock, the Gen 5 is too wide to fit into the frame. You can also use a Glock OEM polymer trigger housing pin since there is no metal that contacts the pin. A standard Gen 3/4 trigger pin and locking block pin is also used.


You will need to source an early style Gen 4 locking block that is flat on the sides. Yes you can cut the tabs off the frame for a standard G4/5 block but LWD will void the warranty if you cut the tabs. I did not have to worry about this since I am using a G44 locking block.


The frame comes with a Gen 3 slide adapter in place at the front of the frame. Leave it there if you plan on using a Gen 3 slide.

Remove it if you are going to use a Gen 4 or Gen 5 slide. Yes the frame is designed to use the Gen 4 and 5 RSA.


Safety/function testing.

It is very important to have an armors inspection plate so that you can check the sear engagement. One thing I noticed was even though the slide to frame gap was the same as any other Glock or P80 pistol, I did have to adjust the cruciform to get a good sear engagement. I tried several Gen 5 trigger housings and Gen 4 trigger housings with the same result.


Another issue I had was that if I held the trigger back while racking the slide, the striker would release as soon as I let go of the trigger. If I pulled the trigger and then let go before racking the slide, it worked as it should. What is causing this is a raised area on the inside of the frame on the right side. I had to file the raised ares flush with the rest of the frame. Once I filed the raised area down, the trigger functioned perfectly and the pistol pasted all safety/function tests

It is very important that you use an armorer’s plate and do a thorough safety/function test.


Live fire testing:

Nothing really to say here. It worked flawlessly through 200 rounds. I had fun at the range with the build.


My overall opinion is that while this is a decent frame and easy to build (for the most part) I would probably not recommend it for a new builder. The reasons for this are twofold. One is the jig and the fact that you must use a